Here’s how we take care of your home, from the first conversation to installation, cleanup, and retesting.
Most jobs start with a phone call, then Bill stops out to look at the home in person. Every home is different, so we do not give quotes from a distance. We look at the basement, sump area, possible pipe route, and exterior fan location before recommending anything. That way you know what we are recommending, why, and what installation day will look like before anything is scheduled.
The night before installation, you get a reminder. The morning of the job, we text you with a more precise arrival time when we are on the way. That way you know when to expect us without sitting around guessing.
Before a single tool comes out, we put down floor protection from the front door to the work area. The goal is to treat the home carefully from the first trip inside, not just after the work is done. Drop cloths, careful setup, this is part of the job, not an afterthought.
Once we are inside, we review what was discussed during the quote visit before starting any work. We confirm the suction point, sump details if relevant, pipe route, and where the system will exit the home. If anything has changed or the homeowner has questions, we address it before drilling starts.
We drill through the slab carefully and use dust control to keep the work area clean. The suction hole needs to be in the right spot to pull effectively from under the home. It is not just punched through wherever it is easiest. Once the suction point is set, we seal cracks and openings that could let the fan pull basement air instead of sub-slab air.
When a sump pit is part of the system, we install a sealed lid with practical access for the sump pump. The lid keeps the system pulling from the right place and lets you get to the pump when you need to. Not every system uses a sump. If the home calls for a different suction approach, we build around that layout instead.
Outside, we mount the radon fan and route the vent pipe up the exterior of the home, safely above the roofline. The fan runs continuously and is what actually moves the radon out. We keep the pipe routing as clean and low-profile as possible while still following the correct path.
When the system is finished, we clean up the work area and do a walkthrough with you before we leave. We show you the manometer on the pipe, the simple indicator that tells you the system is drawing, and explain what to watch for. Any questions about the system get answered before we pack up.
The system runs continuously from the day it is installed. The home should be retested after the proper waiting period to confirm radon levels have dropped. If questions come up later, you are calling the same local company that installed it, not a call center.
Jose has worked with Bill since 2018. He focuses on the installation and clean pipe routing. Bill personally stops by during your installation and stays involved with communication, supplies, and support, although he isn’t on-site the entire time.
We normally schedule two jobs a day, six days a week. We’ll explain what your particular home needs before installation.
From our work
We routed the radon pipe around the existing sewer pipe and connected a second suction point in the crawl space.
Not every visit is a brand-new install. If your fan becomes noticeably louder, rattles, grinds, or hums, it may be wearing out and it is time for replacement. If the fan is silent or the manometer is flat, the system may not be applying suction and should be checked. The U-tube manometer on the pipe shows whether the fan is still applying suction. Radon fan replacement is a normal call for us, including systems another company installed. We can typically come out the same day or the next day. If a fan we install fails during the first five years, the service visit, labor, and replacement fan are included.
No trip charge. Questions? Call or text Bill's cell at (815) 370-9682 and send a photo of the fan or manometer if you have one. That number is Bill's cell phone.
How long it takes, who shows up, what the pipe looks like, and when to retest.
Yes. In Illinois the post-mitigation test is taken after the system has run for at least 24 hours and no later than 30 days after installation, with the system running normally and continuously for the whole test. You can run it yourself with a test kit or hire an independent Illinois-licensed measurement professional. Send American Radon Systems a copy of the result so your file is complete.
Most residential installs are completed in a single visit, often a few hours once the plan is set. Bill looks at the home first so materials and routing are right. Real estate closings get scheduled around the calendar when you tell us the date early.
Yes. Many Illinois homes need more than one suction point, especially split-levels and three-step ranches with a basement plus crawl space. Slab homes get their own approach. The goal is every foundation area covered and a clean pipe route that looks like it belongs.
We plan routing carefully. Where the layout allows, pipe may go through a garage attic or interior chase and out the roof. When the cleanest path is outside, it goes on a side or rear elevation and is finished to read more like a downspout than a mistake on the front of the home.
Usually Bill and Jose. Most days they run two jobs. Jose stays focused on the PVC routing and install with no phone distractions. Bill restocks the truck, often runs a nearby quote, and comes back as a second set of hands for finish and load-out. Jose has been with Bill since 2018.
A properly working radon fan is not perfectly silent. Most produce a soft, steady sound of air moving through the pipe. Fan placement and sound are considered in the design, which is one reason Bill looks at the home before quoting. A fan that becomes noticeably louder, rattles, grinds, hums, or sends vibration through the wall should be checked.
The discharge goes above the eave of the roof and away from windows, doors, and other openings, so the soil gas the fan pulls from under the house mixes into outdoor air instead of drifting back inside or into a neighbor’s window. Illinois requires the discharge above the highest eave, as close to the roof ridge line as possible, at least 10 feet above the ground, and at least 10 feet from any window, door, or other opening into the house that sits less than 2 feet below the exhaust point. It also has to be at least 10 feet from any opening into an adjacent building. That is why the pipe runs up past the roofline rather than stopping at the fan.
We do not recommend one, and on most homes we do not install one. A cap restricts the airflow the fan is working to move, and it turns the exhaust downward, which can push soil air toward a window or door where it can get back into the house. Illinois rules put the discharge up and away from openings for the same reason. A cap also ices up sooner. The air leaving the pipe in winter is warm and damp, and a cap or a wire screen in its path gives that moisture something to freeze onto, so the system can lock up at milder outdoor temperatures than an open pipe would. An open pipe handles rain fine; the little that gets in drains back down the pipe. If a tree hangs over the pipe, Bill may add a leaf guard mesh so it does not fill with leaves. Otherwise, an open pipe is the right call.
Give us a call or fill out the form. Bill will talk through your results, your timeline, and what the right next step looks like. If radon showed up during a real estate inspection, call early so you still have schedule room.
Buying or selling with radon · Buyer-side path · Seller-side path