Airthings monitors can be useful for seeing radon trends, but homeowners often wonder why the number moves, when to trust the average, and how a monitor result should fit with mitigation decisions. This page gathers practical Airthings-related questions without treating any consumer monitor as the final word by itself. Short-term movement can reflect weather, ventilation, placement, and normal radon variation. Longer patterns may justify confirmation testing or a mitigation system review. American Radon Systems does not sell monitors; the company helps homeowners understand the mitigation side when readings suggest a system, passive rough-in, crawlspace, sump area, or existing fan should be checked.
Pull the battery tab out of the back, download the Airthings app on your phone, and follow the in-app pairing steps - it walks you through everything. The device pairs via Bluetooth, so keep your phone close during setup. Once it's paired, just hang it on a wall in the lowest lived-in level of your home and let it run.
Question linkHang it in the lowest level of the house where people actually spend time - a bedroom in the basement, a family room, or wherever your family is most often. Avoid bathrooms, kitchens, crawlspaces, and spots right next to HVAC vents. Radon monitors need to breathe normal room air to give you an accurate reading.
Question linkSomewhere between about two and five feet off the floor is the general recommendation. It doesn't have to be exact. What matters more is that it's away from drafts, exterior walls, and areas where air circulation is unusual.
Question linkSetting it on a shelf works fine. Airthings designed it to be wall-mounted, but a shelf, nightstand, or bookcase all work. Just give it a few inches of clear space around it so it can sample the air properly.
Question linkNo. The Wave Radon pairs via Bluetooth, not Wi-Fi. Your phone needs an internet connection to download the app and create an account, but the monitor itself talks to your phone over Bluetooth. No Wi-Fi or hub required for the basic setup.
Question linkIt takes about an hour to show an initial reading, and that first number is not very reliable yet. The monitor becomes more accurate as it collects more data - the long-term average, which usually stabilizes after a few days and is more meaningful after a week or more, is what you really want to pay attention to.
Question linkYes, you need an account to add devices and see your data in the app. It's free to create. The account is what lets you track history, set alerts, and eventually share your readings with family members.
Question linkThe Wave Radon doesn't have a screen, so without the app you can't read the numbers. You can wave your hand in front of it to trigger the LED color indicator - green, yellow, or red - which gives you a rough sense of where things stand, but for actual pCi/L readings you need the app.
Question linkMake sure Bluetooth is turned on and that you've given the app permission to use Bluetooth. Try closing the app fully and reopening it. If the device still won't show up, pull the batteries out for 30 seconds and put them back in. Keep your phone within a few feet of the monitor during pairing.
Question linkThis usually means your phone is out of Bluetooth range of the monitor, or Bluetooth got toggled off. The app pulls data when your phone is close enough to sync. If you're standing right next to it and it still says that, try force-closing the app and reopening, or check that Bluetooth permissions are enabled for the Airthings app in your phone settings.
Question linkYes, the Airthings Wave Radon ships with batteries already inside - there's just a pull tab to activate them. It's one of the easier device setups around.
Question linkIt uses standard AA batteries. They're easy to find anywhere and the device runs on them for a long time - typically many months under normal use.
Question linkThe app will show a low-battery warning in the device detail screen. You can also check battery status directly in the app on the main dashboard. The device won't fail suddenly - you'll get a heads-up before it stops working.
Question linkWhen you replace batteries, the device essentially restarts its averaging process. The first readings after a battery swap will be less stable. Give it a day or two and the readings should settle back to normal. If the device is brand new after the swap, the long-term average will take longer to stabilize.
Question linkA reading of 0.0 can happen right after setup before the device has had enough time to collect data. It can also happen if the batteries are dying or if something went wrong during setup. Give it a few hours. If it stays at 0.0 after 24 hours, try pulling the batteries out for a minute and reinserting them.
Question linkGreen means radon levels are in a good range - below about 2.0 pCi/L. Yellow means levels are elevated and worth keeping an eye on - roughly 2.0 to 3.9 pCi/L. Red means radon is high enough that the EPA recommends taking action - 4.0 pCi/L or above. The exact thresholds can be adjusted in the app, but those are the defaults.
Question linkWave your hand slowly in front of the sensor on the face of the device - that's why it's called the Wave. The LED ring will light up green, yellow, or red based on current radon levels. It's designed so you can check it at a glance without pulling out your phone.
Question linkTry waving more slowly and closer to the front face of the device - about 6 to 12 inches away. If it still doesn't respond, check the battery level in the app. A very low battery can cause the LED to stop responding before the device itself stops recording. If batteries are fine and it still won't trigger, a battery pull-and-reinsert sometimes fixes it.
Question linkTell her yellow means radon levels in her house are in the middle range - not at the point where action is required right now, but worth watching. The EPA says levels between 2 and 4 pCi/L are low enough to live with but high enough to consider doing something about. She doesn't need to panic - she just needs to check again in a few weeks and see if it stays yellow or moves.
Question linkTell him red just means the current or recent average is above 4.0 pCi/L, which is the threshold where the EPA recommends fixing. That's useful information - it means mitigation is worth looking into. One red reading doesn't mean a health emergency happened overnight; radon risk is cumulative over years. The right next step is to confirm the reading with a professional test and then get the house evaluated for a mitigation system. Call or text us and we can talk through what to do next.
Question linkThe LED colors have thresholds - green typically means below about 2.0 pCi/L, but if the monitor was calibrated or thresholds were adjusted, the LED might reflect a short-window average that's lower while the 7-day or long-term average in the app is higher. At 2.8 pCi/L, you're in the yellow zone by EPA guidelines - not urgent, but worth watching. If it stays there or climbs, mitigation is worth considering.
Question linkYes, the Airthings app lets you adjust alert thresholds and, to some extent, the LED trigger levels. By default the thresholds follow EPA guidance, which is what we'd recommend keeping.
Question linkTrust the number in the app over the LED color. The LED is a quick visual indicator, and the colors may reflect a different time window or the threshold may be set slightly lower than the EPA default. At 3.6 pCi/L you're in the zone where EPA guidance says mitigation is worth considering. Worth keeping an eye on and having a professional test done if you haven't.
Question linkThe Corentium Home has a built-in digital display that shows you the radon reading right on the device - no app, no phone required. The Wave Radon has no display and relies on the app and the LED color ring. If you want something a family member can just look at without any technology involved, the Corentium Home is usually the better fit.
Question linkNo. The Corentium Home is a standalone device with a screen. It doesn't need a phone, an app, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth to show you radon levels. You plug it in (or put batteries in depending on the version) and it just starts measuring and displaying the reading on its own.
Question linkThe display shows three numbers: the current reading, the last 24-hour average, and the long-term average (usually labeled as LTA or shown with a house icon). The long-term average is the most meaningful one for deciding whether your radon levels are a concern.
Question linkAt 4.8 pCi/L, that's above the EPA's action guideline of 4.0 pCi/L. That's the number that matters most - the long-term average reflects what the house has actually been like over weeks and months, not just one day. It's time to get the house tested professionally to confirm, and to look into a mitigation system. Give us a call and we can walk through the next steps.
Question linkThe Corentium Home 2 added optional Bluetooth connectivity so you can optionally pair it to the app - but it still works completely independently without one. If you want history and graphs, you can link it to the app. If you just want the display, no pairing required.
Question linkThe Corentium Home is battery-powered and typically runs for many months on a set of batteries. The display and the slow sampling cycle keep power consumption low. Check the current reading on the screen - if the device is working normally, the batteries are fine.
Question linkThe display is a small segmented LCD and can be dim in bright rooms or from certain angles. Try looking straight at it in normal indoor lighting. If the screen seems completely blank, the batteries may be low or the device may be off.
Question linkNo. The Corentium Home works right out of the box with no registration, no app, and no internet connection. Just put in the batteries and let it run. The optional app connection is there if you want it, not required.
Question linkDashes or blank segments on the Corentium Home usually mean the device hasn't been running long enough to generate a reading yet, or the batteries are very low. The device needs at least an hour of operation before it shows any reading, and the long-term average takes several days to become meaningful. If the batteries are fresh and it still shows dashes after a day, try removing and reinserting the batteries.
Question linkThe Corentium Home tracks a running long-term average and shows short-term and current readings, but it doesn't log timestamped historical data that you can scroll through the way the app-connected devices do. For a full data history with graphs, you'd need a device that connects to the Airthings app.
Question linkThe Wave Plus tracks radon, CO2 (carbon dioxide), TVOCs (total volatile organic compounds), temperature, humidity, and air pressure. It's designed to give a broader picture of indoor air quality, not just radon.
Question linkIf you only care about radon, the basic Wave Radon does that job at a lower price. The Wave Plus makes more sense if you're also curious about CO2 levels from poor ventilation, VOCs from new furniture or paint, or you just want a fuller indoor air quality picture. For radon-specific testing, either device works.
Question linkVOCs spike from everyday things - cooking, cleaning products, new furniture off-gassing, paint, air fresheners. A short spike isn't necessarily a problem. If your VOC reading is chronically elevated and you're not sure why, it's worth ventilating more and seeing if that helps. The Wave Plus can help you figure out what activities are causing it.
Question linkCO2 builds up when people are in a room breathing, especially in a space with limited fresh air. It's very common to see CO2 spike when a room is full of people and drop when they leave or windows are opened. It doesn't mean anything is wrong with the device.
Question linkYes, same process - Bluetooth pairing through the Airthings app. The setup is nearly identical. The app just shows more sensor panels for the Wave Plus.
Question linkLike the Wave Radon, the Wave Plus has no screen, so without the app you can only use the LED color ring and the wave gesture. The LED on the Wave Plus reflects radon levels specifically, not the other sensors, unless you've changed the settings.
Question linkHumidity sensors in consumer devices are generally accurate but not laboratory-grade. Small differences between the Wave Plus and a thermostat or weather station are normal. If the difference is huge - like 40 percentage points - it may indicate a sensor issue or the device may be placed near a source of moisture.
Question linkYes, the radon sensor technology is the same in both devices. The Wave Plus has the same radon measurement capability as the Wave Radon - the additional sensors are independent additions.
Question linkThe View Radon is a wall-mounted display that shows your radon levels in real time on a large, easy-to-read screen. It connects via Wi-Fi, so it keeps your data synced to the Airthings dashboard without needing your phone nearby. It's a good option for people who want an always-visible display.
Question linkNo, the View Radon connects directly to your home Wi-Fi. It doesn't need the separate Airthings Hub. The Hub is useful for connecting Bluetooth-only devices (like the Wave Radon) to the internet without needing your phone nearby - but the View Radon has Wi-Fi built in.
Question linkThe Airthings Hub is a small device that plugs into an outlet and connects to your Wi-Fi. It acts as a bridge for Bluetooth devices like the Wave Radon, keeping them synced to the cloud even when your phone isn't home. Whether you need one depends on your setup - if you're away from home a lot and want continuous cloud sync, a Hub makes that possible. If you're fine with syncing data only when your phone comes within Bluetooth range, you don't need one.
Question linkWithout a Hub, the Wave Radon only syncs data to the cloud when your phone is within Bluetooth range. If you want real-time data from anywhere, the Airthings Hub solves that - it keeps the monitor connected to the cloud 24/7.
Question linkNo subscription is needed for the Hub itself or for basic app features. You buy the Hub outright and it works with your existing Airthings app account. Airthings does offer some premium features at a cost, but the core functionality - readings, history, alerts - doesn't require a subscription.
Question linkThey're related products in the View family. The View Radon focuses specifically on radon. The View Plus adds more sensors (CO2, VOC, temperature, humidity, pressure) similar to what the Wave Plus does. If you just want radon with a display, the View Radon covers it.
Question linkThe View Radon is typically USB-powered rather than battery-powered. It's designed to be a fixed, always-on display device.
Question linkFrom the App Store if you have an iPhone, or the Google Play Store if you have an Android phone. Just search "Airthings." It's free to download.
Question linkYes, the app is free. Creating an account is free. Basic features - readings, history, alerts - are all included at no cost. There are some optional premium features Airthings offers for a fee, but most home users will never need those.
Question linkYes, you need to create a free account. The account is what stores your device data, keeps history, and lets you set alerts. It also lets you share access with family members.
Question linkUse the "Forgot password" option on the login screen. Airthings will send a reset link to the email address you used when you created your account. If you don't see the email, check your spam folder.
Question linkYes. You can log into your Airthings account from multiple devices. Any phone logged into the same account can see the readings, history, and settings for all devices on that account.
Question linkOpen the app, tap the "+" or "Add device" option, and follow the on-screen steps. The app will search for nearby Bluetooth devices. Make sure Bluetooth is on and the device is powered up before you start.
Question linkThe main dashboard shows your devices and their current readings. Tap on a device to see its detail screen, which shows the current radon number, a 24-hour average, and a long-term average. There are usually graphs showing how the number has moved over time. The number to pay the most attention to is the long-term average - that's what actually tells you whether your house has a radon issue.
Question linkThe long-term average is the one that matters most for radon risk decisions. The 24-hour reading bounces around with normal changes in weather and air pressure. The long-term average smooths all of that out and gives you a reliable picture of what your home is actually like.
Question linkTap on your device in the app, then tap on the radon reading. You should see a graph with time options - 24 hours, 7 days, 30 days, and longer periods. The longer views are the most useful for spotting patterns.
Question linkIf the device is out of Bluetooth range of your phone, the app won't receive new data, but the device itself is still recording locally. When your phone comes back within range, the app will sync the data it missed. If you want continuous cloud sync without needing your phone present, an Airthings Hub solves that.
Question linkYes, Airthings has a web dashboard at dashboard.airthings.com where you can log in and see your readings and history from any browser.
Question linkYes, the app runs on both iPhones and Android phones, and it works on tablets as well. Anything that can run iOS or Android apps and has Bluetooth should work.
Question linkBelieve the long-term average for radon risk assessment. Short-term readings - 24 hours or less - bounce around because radon levels naturally rise and fall with weather, barometric pressure, wind, and whether windows are open. A single high day doesn't necessarily mean your home has a chronic problem. Even so, if the 24-hour reading is consistently high over multiple days, the long-term average will start to reflect it.
Question linkRadon levels in a home are not static - they go up and down naturally with barometric pressure changes, temperature swings, whether doors and windows are open, and even how windy it is outside. This is completely normal and doesn't mean the monitor is broken. The long-term average accounts for all of this fluctuation.
Question linkProbably not broken. Short-term spikes can happen when the weather changes dramatically - a cold front, a big pressure drop, or a period of heavy rain can temporarily push radon levels up. Give it a few days and see if it comes back down. If the long-term average starts climbing toward 4.0 and stays there, that's when you'd want to take action. If one spike concerns you, a professional test can give you a second opinion.
Question linkThe national average in the US is around 1.3 pCi/L. Many homes run between 1.0 and 2.5 pCi/L. Below 2.0 pCi/L is generally in a comfortable range. Between 2.0 and 4.0 pCi/L the EPA says the risk is lower but real - worth considering mitigation. At or above 4.0 pCi/L the EPA recommends fixing.
Question linkAt 4.0 pCi/L, you're right at the EPA action guideline - that's the threshold where the EPA recommends mitigation. Getting a professional test to confirm makes sense, and it's worth having someone look at your home to see if mitigation is practical. There's no radon level that carries zero risk, and 4.0 is where the EPA draws the line for taking action.
Question linkIt's very common for radon to be higher overnight and early morning. Houses tend to be closed up at night, and in cooler overnight temperatures the pressure dynamics inside a house can pull more radon up from the soil. This is a well-documented pattern and doesn't mean anything is wrong with your monitor.
Question linkIt's unusual but not impossible, especially if there was a significant weather event - a storm system moving through, a big barometric pressure drop - or if something changed in the house like opening up a crawlspace or operating a wood stove. Let it run for a few more days and see where the long-term average settles. If it stays elevated, have a professional test done.
Question linkThe 24-hour reading is useful for spotting short-term changes - like seeing radon go up when you close all your windows for the first time in fall, or noticing a spike after a big storm. For deciding whether your home needs mitigation, the long-term average is what matters. Think of the 24-hour reading as "what's happening right now" and the long-term average as "what my house is actually like."
Question linkTypically a week to two weeks of continuous operation before the long-term average is reliable enough to act on. Airthings usually shows a confidence level or a note about reading accuracy in the first days. For decisions about whether to mitigate, most professionals suggest letting a monitor run for at least 30 days.
Question linkBluetooth range varies by environment - walls, floors, and interference all affect it. In a typical home, the Wave Radon's Bluetooth reaches through a wall or two, maybe 30 to 50 feet in open space. If your phone is upstairs and the monitor is in the basement, syncing may be unreliable.
Question linkNo, the device stores its data locally. When you do bring your phone within range - even just walking through the basement - the app will sync everything it missed. You won't lose readings just because your phone isn't nearby.
Question linkYes. The device records readings continuously whether or not your phone is nearby. The data is stored on the device. When your phone comes back into Bluetooth range, the app syncs and you'll see the full history.
Question linkAirthings devices can store a significant amount of historical data locally - enough that occasional syncing is fine. You don't need to be home every day. If you go on a week-long vacation, it'll sync when you get back.
Question linkTry toggling Bluetooth off and back on on your phone. Close the app fully and reopen it. If the monitor was recently moved or the batteries replaced, it may need a moment to re-establish connection. In rare cases, removing the device from the app and re-adding it solves persistent pairing issues.
Question linkOn most phones, the app needs to be at least running in the background for a Bluetooth sync to happen automatically. Some phones with strict battery management may kill background apps - in that case you'd need to open the app to trigger a sync. The Airthings Hub solves this entirely since it handles the sync independently.
Question linkOpen the app with your phone in the same room as the monitor. Pull down on the dashboard to refresh, or tap into the device. The app should connect and pull in the missed data. If it doesn't connect, check that Bluetooth is on and the app has Bluetooth permissions.
Question linkAirthings hasn't published a precise hour count, and real-world life depends on how often you sync, temperature, and other factors. In practice, most users get many months of use - often 12 to 18 months - before needing a replacement. The app will warn you before they die.
Question linkNo. When you replace batteries, the long-term average resets because the device has restarted. The historical data that was synced to the app is still there. But the device's internal long-term average will start building again from the point of the battery swap.
Question linkLow battery warnings give you some lead time - 10% typically means the device still has some life left, but it's a good time to pick up replacement batteries and swap them in soon. Don't let it die completely if you want continuous monitoring.
Question linkAirthings recommends standard alkaline batteries. Rechargeable NiMH batteries have a slightly different voltage profile that can cause the battery level indicator to read inaccurately. They technically work, but the battery display may be unreliable.
Question linkFor a Bluetooth-only device, "offline" in the app typically just means your phone hasn't synced with it recently - the monitor is probably still running and recording. Bring your phone close to the device and open the app. If it's a Wi-Fi connected device and it shows offline, check that your Wi-Fi is working and that the device is powered.
Question linkThree dashes usually mean the device hasn't generated enough data to show a reading yet, or it's lost connection and the app is displaying a cached but incomplete state. If the device is new, give it an hour or two. If it's been running for a while, try syncing by bringing your phone close to the device.
Question linkQuestion marks typically mean the device is still warming up and hasn't collected enough data to display a confident reading. This is normal in the first hour or two after setup or battery replacement.
Question linkTry these in order: make sure your phone's Bluetooth is on; check that the Airthings app has Bluetooth permission in your phone settings; pull the batteries out of the device for 60 seconds and reinsert; force-close and reopen the app. If none of that works, try removing the device from your account in the app and re-adding it from scratch. In rare cases a full app uninstall and reinstall clears persistent pairing issues.
Question linkCheck that Bluetooth is enabled on your phone and that the Airthings app has permission to use Bluetooth. Some Android phones require Location permission as well for Bluetooth scanning to work. Try toggling Bluetooth off and on. If it still won't connect, a battery pull-and-reinsert on the device often resets the Bluetooth connection.
Question linkCheck the batteries first - this is the most common cause of a device that suddenly disappears. If batteries are fine, try the force-close/reopen routine on the app and make sure you're close to the device. If you recently got a new phone and didn't re-pair the device, you'll need to go through the pairing process again on the new phone.
Question linkMake sure Bluetooth is on. On Android, make sure Location Services are enabled - Android requires location permission for Bluetooth device discovery even though it's not about your location. Check that the device is powered (you should see a solid light or flash when you wave at it). If you still can't find it, pull the batteries and reinsert them before trying again.
Question linkThat means the device is already tied to an account - either yours (if you've set it up before) or a previous owner's. If it's your device and you just can't find it in your account, check that you're logged into the right account. If you bought it used and it's registered to someone else, you'll need to factory reset it to clear the previous registration.
Question linkA used Airthings will likely still be registered to the previous owner's account, which will prevent you from adding it to yours. You need to factory reset the device to clear the old registration. The reset process varies by model - for the Wave devices, it typically involves pressing and holding a button (or button combination) on the device. Check the Airthings support site for the specific reset steps for your model. Once reset, you can add it to your account in the app like a new device.
Question linkA factory reset clears the device's local data and removes the account association. Any data that was previously synced to the old owner's Airthings cloud account stays in their account - you won't have access to it. After reset, the device starts fresh.
Question linkIn the Airthings app, go to your device settings and look for a "Remove device" or "Delete device" option. Removing it from your account disassociates it so the new owner can add it to theirs. You may also want to factory reset the device to clear any locally stored data.
Question linkRemove the device from your Airthings account first, or factory reset it. Then have her download the Airthings app, create a free account, and follow the pairing steps as if it were a new device. Once paired to her account, she'll start building her own reading history.
Question linkFirst try the "Forgot password" reset flow - that handles most login issues. If you used "Sign in with Google" or "Sign in with Apple" when you created your account, make sure you're using that same method. If you've tried everything and still can't get in, contact Airthings support directly through their website.
Question linkYes. The Airthings app supports multiple devices under one account. Both monitors will appear on your dashboard, and you can tap into each one to see its readings and history separately.
Question linkYes. The Airthings app has a sharing feature that lets you invite family members or anyone else to view your device data. They'll need an Airthings account, and you can grant them access through the app settings. They'll be able to see readings but typically not change device settings unless you grant them full access.
Question linkShe'll need to download the Airthings app and create a free account. Then in your Airthings app, go to the sharing or household settings and invite her email address. She accepts the invite and she'll be able to see the readings on her phone.
Question linkYes. Once you've added family members to your Airthings account through the sharing feature, they can also set up notifications on their phones through the app settings.
Question linkIn the app, go to the device settings or notification settings. You'll find options to set alert thresholds - for example, get a notification when radon exceeds 4.0 pCi/L. You can set the threshold to whatever level you want, and the app will send a push notification to your phone when the reading crosses it.
Question linkAn elevated alert means the reading crossed the threshold you (or the app default) has set - usually around 4.0 pCi/L. It doesn't mean there's an emergency. Check the app to see the actual number and look at the long-term average. If the long-term average is pushing above 4.0, it's time to look at mitigation. If it's a short-term spike, watch it for a few days.
Question linkCheck two places: first, inside the Airthings app under notification or alert settings to make sure alerts are enabled and a threshold is set. Second, in your phone's system settings, make sure notifications are allowed for the Airthings app. Both need to be on for notifications to come through.
Question linkAirthings primarily sends push notifications through the app. Email alerts depend on the account tier and app version - check your account settings in the app or on the web dashboard to see what's available.
Question linkYes. In the app's device or notification settings you can change the alert threshold to any level you choose. If the default is too sensitive for your situation, you can raise it. Most people set it somewhere around 4.0 pCi/L to align with EPA guidance.
Question linkYes. Airthings has an Alexa skill that lets you ask your Echo device for your current radon reading. You'll need to enable the Airthings skill in the Alexa app and link your Airthings account.
Question linkYes, Airthings supports Google Home integration. You can link your account through the Google Home app and ask Google Assistant about your radon levels.
Question linkAirthings has worked on HomeKit compatibility, though support has varied by product and firmware version. Check the current Airthings compatibility list for your specific device model - the answer has changed over time with firmware updates.
Question linkWith integrations like IFTTT or through platforms like Home Assistant, you can create automations based on Airthings data. Airthings has also offered its own automation features for things like connecting with smart ventilation. It depends on what smart home system you're using and what you're trying to automate.
Question linkMake sure the Airthings skill is enabled and your account is linked. Try "Alexa, ask Airthings what's my radon level" - the exact phrasing matters with skills. If it's still not responding, disable and re-enable the skill and re-link your account.
Question linkYes. Through the Airthings web dashboard at dashboard.airthings.com, you can export your historical readings as a CSV file. This is useful if you want to share the data with a professional or just keep your own records.
Question linkAirthings stores historical data on its servers as long as your account is active. There's no stated short expiration - most users report having years of historical data available. If you're concerned about long-term storage, you can export it periodically.
Question linkYou can either share your screen in the app, print graphs from the web dashboard, or export a CSV and share that. The export option at dashboard.airthings.com is usually the cleanest way to hand data to a professional.
Question linkBoth. The device records locally, and when synced via Bluetooth (or Hub), that data goes up to the Airthings cloud. If you sync regularly, the cloud has a full record. If you miss syncs, the device holds the data until the next connection.
Question linkNo subscription is required for core features. The app is free, and basic monitoring, history, and alerts are all included at no cost. Airthings has offered optional premium features for a fee, but the fundamental radon monitoring experience doesn't need it.
Question linkNot for the standard home monitoring features. You buy the device and use the app for free. Some commercial or advanced features have associated costs, but residential users generally don't encounter those.
Question linkNo, basic cloud storage of your device history is included with the free account. You don't pay ongoing fees to store your readings.
Question linkThe details have changed over time, but premium tiers have typically offered things like extended historical data, more detailed analytics, or multi-location management. For a typical homeowner monitoring one home, the free tier is usually sufficient.
Question linkAirthings generally offers a two-year warranty on their consumer devices. The warranty covers manufacturing defects. For current warranty specifics, check the Airthings website or your product documentation since terms can vary by product and region.
Question linkIf it's within the warranty period (typically two years for Airthings consumer products), contact Airthings support. They'll walk you through troubleshooting and, if the device is defective, arrange a replacement. Have your purchase information ready.
Question linkGo to airthings.com and look for the support or help section. They have a support portal, email contact, and documentation. For warranty claims, you'll typically need your proof of purchase and serial number.
Question linkThe Corentium Home is the best fit for people without smartphones - it has a built-in screen and requires no app, no phone, and no internet connection. If they already have a Wave Radon (which needs an app), you could set it up from your phone and then use the Hub to keep it synced so you can check it remotely on their behalf.
Question linkYes, if you set up the device on your Airthings account and add a Hub (or use a Wi-Fi connected device like the View Radon), you can see her readings from anywhere through the app. You can also set alerts so you get notified if levels get high. This is actually a really practical use case.
Question linkAt 5.1 pCi/L on a month-long average, that's above the EPA's 4.0 pCi/L action guideline - that's the threshold where they recommend taking action. He should get a professional assessment and look at a mitigation system. It doesn't mean anyone has been harmed, but it does mean the issue is real and worth fixing. Give us a call and we can talk through the next steps.
Question linkAt 2.7 pCi/L, she's in the range where the EPA says the risk is lower but real. It's not at the 4.0 threshold where they recommend action, but it's above the national average. The honest answer is that it's worth keeping an eye on, and if she's concerned or thinking about home improvements anyway, looking into mitigation wouldn't be a bad idea. It's not a number that requires urgent action.
Question linkYes, 0.4 pCi/L is a very low reading - well below the national average of about 1.3 pCi/L. Depending on the geology of the area and the construction of the house, some homes genuinely run that low. It's a good result.
Question linkTell her to take a breath. One high reading doesn't mean disaster, especially if it's a short-term spike. Weather events, pressure changes, or even opening and closing parts of the house can temporarily push radon up. She should look at the long-term average in the app - if that's also high, it's time to take action. If the long-term average is still in a lower range, it was likely a temporary event. Either way, getting a professional test done would give her a clearer picture. She can call us and we can help her figure out the next step.
Question linkThe LED color system uses certain thresholds that may be set slightly different from what she expects, and the color might be reflecting a different time window than the long-term average in the app. At 3.4 pCi/L, she's in the zone where the EPA says it's worth considering mitigation - not urgent action, but worth thinking about. The app number is more reliable than the LED color for detailed decision-making.
Question linkRadon levels in a home naturally fluctuate day to day and even hour to hour. This happens because radon seeps up from the soil and the amount that enters the house changes with barometric pressure, temperature differences between inside and outside, wind, and whether windows are open. The monitor isn't broken - it's accurately recording the natural variation. The long-term average is what smooths all of that out.
Question linkWhen you move the monitor, give it a few days to adjust. The readings in a new location may be different from where it was before, which is expected. The long-term average will take time to reflect the new location.
Question linkYes, very normal. In winter, houses are sealed tighter, ventilation decreases, and radon that enters has less opportunity to escape. It's one of the most common reasons people see radon levels rise - and one of the reasons EPA testing guidelines recommend doing tests in closed-house conditions.
Question linkOpening windows significantly lowers indoor radon levels by diluting it with fresh outdoor air. That reading reflects what the house is like with open windows, not what it's normally like. For a realistic assessment of your home's radon, the monitor should run with the house in its normal, closed condition - especially for a continuous monitor like an Airthings.
Question linkPossibly. HVAC systems move a lot of air and can create pressure differences in the house that affect how much radon enters from the soil. Some people see radon readings shift noticeably with the HVAC cycle. This is a real effect and worth noting - if your house runs at significantly higher radon when the system is on, it's useful information for a mitigation professional.
Question linkA woodstove creates a large negative pressure in the house - it draws air in to feed the fire. That depressurization can pull radon up from the soil faster than normal, temporarily spiking radon levels. It's a known phenomenon. Running exhaust fans for extended periods causes the same thing.
Question linkRadon levels are highly localized - even adjacent homes can have very different readings depending on how each home was built, foundation type, soil composition beneath each specific house, and whether either home has mitigation. The readings are both valid; they're just measuring different homes on what may be different patches of geology.
Question linkApp updates sometimes reorganize menus or change how features are accessed. Check the release notes in the App Store or Google Play for what changed. The Airthings support site also has updated documentation. If a specific feature seems to be missing, it's worth searching the Airthings community forum or contacting their support.
Question link0.2 pCi/L is at the very low end but possible - some homes in certain geological areas genuinely have very little radon. If you have reason to be skeptical (the house is old, the basement is unfinished, the area is known for radon), you could confirm with a separate test. But very low readings are real for some homes.
Question linkYes, the spinning wheel typically means the device is booting up, reconnecting to Wi-Fi, or installing a firmware update. Give it a few minutes before worrying. If it stays on the spinning wheel for more than 10-15 minutes, try unplugging and replugging again.
Question linkInterior versus exterior wall placement matters less than floor level and proximity to radon entry points. If you're in a basement and readings are high, that reflects the actual radon levels in that space - moving the monitor won't change the radon, just where you're measuring it. Placement on the lowest lived-in level is what's most meaningful.
Question linkYou'll create the account as part of the pairing process in the app - but it's fine to create the account first. The app will prompt you either way. Just download the app and follow the steps; it's designed to walk you through both.
Question linkThe Airthings app has minimum iOS requirements that change with updates. If your iPhone is very old (more than several years), you may be running an iOS version the app no longer supports. Check the App Store listing for current requirements, or consider the Corentium Home as a standalone option that needs no phone at all.
Question linkYes. As long as you're logging into the same Airthings account, you can switch between Android and iPhone. The data lives in the cloud account, not on the phone.
Question linkOn Android, Bluetooth Low Energy scanning is technically classified as a location capability by the operating system - it's not that Airthings is tracking your GPS position. Without that permission, Android won't let the app scan for nearby Bluetooth devices. You can grant it just for the app without concern.
Question linkThe Wave Radon can pair with one phone at a time over Bluetooth, but multiple people can access the data through the shared Airthings account. Have your husband download the app, log into your shared Airthings account (or use the sharing feature to invite him), and he'll see the readings without needing to Bluetooth-pair directly.
Question linkJust re-download the Airthings app, log back into your account, and your device should still appear in your device list. You may need to re-pair via Bluetooth to re-establish the local connection, but the data and device registration in your account should still be there.
Question linkThe Wave Radon uses Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) - a different mode than what Bluetooth speakers use. It connects to the Airthings app specifically and doesn't interfere with normal Bluetooth audio devices on your phone.
Question linkNo. Radon does not cause acute symptoms - headaches, fatigue, sore throat, and similar symptoms are not signs of radon exposure. Radon is a long-term risk: cumulative radiation exposure over years increases the risk of lung cancer. If you're experiencing symptoms, radon is not the cause, and you should talk to a doctor about what might be.
Question linkRadon risk is cumulative over years of exposure, not something that causes harm from a single week. One week at elevated levels is not a health emergency. The important thing now is to confirm the reading and, if the long-term average is above 4.0 pCi/L, move forward with mitigation. The monitor did its job by alerting you.
Question linkRadon doesn't have a completely "safe" level - there's some level of risk at any concentration, just as there's risk at any level of any radiation. The EPA's guidance gives you a practical framework: below 2.0 pCi/L is low risk, 2.0 to 4.0 is worth considering, and 4.0 and above is where they recommend action. A low reading is genuinely good news.
Question linkA continuous monitor like an Airthings device gives you very useful long-term data - often more useful than a short-term test kit because it shows patterns over time. However, if you need testing for a specific purpose (like a real estate transaction or a formal mitigation assessment), a professional test may be what's asked for. For general home monitoring and understanding your radon situation, an Airthings monitor is a solid tool.
Question linkGet the house mitigated as soon as you reasonably can - that stops ongoing exposure. For personal health concerns or questions about past exposure, talk to your doctor. Mitigation is very effective at reducing radon to low levels and stopping any further cumulative risk. The past exposure is what it was; the right move now is to cut the ongoing risk off. We can help with the mitigation side of things.
Question linkTap on the number or the radon tile in the app - usually tapping through the device detail screen will reveal the graph view. If the graph isn't appearing, the device may not have enough data yet to display one. Give it a day or two.
Question linkTry force-closing the app and reopening. If it keeps crashing, update the app to the latest version. If the problem persists, uninstall and reinstall the app - your data is stored in the cloud, so reinstalling won't lose anything.
Question linkYes. Log into dashboard.airthings.com from any computer browser with your Airthings account credentials. You'll see all your device data, history, and graphs there.
Question linkThe Wave Radon uses a passive radon sensor that continuously monitors. It reports an updated reading approximately every hour. The displayed reading in the app reflects the most recent measurement.
Question link"Updating" typically means the app is syncing with the device or the server. If you're right next to the device with Bluetooth on, it should finish quickly. If it takes more than a few minutes, try refreshing the app or toggling Bluetooth off and back on.
Question linkThe Wave Radon is designed for indoor residential environments - moderate temperature ranges. Extreme heat (like a hot garage in summer) may affect sensor performance and is outside the intended operating range. For accurate readings, place it in a climate-controlled living space.
Question linkExtreme temperatures in a car (very hot or very cold) can potentially affect the device. Let it come to room temperature, put in fresh batteries, and give it a day of normal operation. If readings seem completely off or it won't respond at all, contact Airthings support.
Question linkAirthings recommends checking the sensor lifespan in the app or documentation for your specific model. Some consumer radon sensors have a rated lifespan after which accuracy may degrade. The app or Airthings support can tell you the expected life of your specific device.
Question linkConsumer radon monitors like the Airthings don't typically require user-performed recalibration. Airthings uses factory calibration. Some models may receive calibration updates through firmware. If you're concerned about accuracy drift after extended use, check the device's rated sensor lifespan.
Question linkThe Airthings app typically follows your phone's language setting. Go into your phone's settings and check the language, or look for a language option in the Airthings app settings menu.
Question linkConsumer continuous monitors like Airthings give you a good ongoing picture of your home's radon and are useful for long-term monitoring. Professional tests using licensed methods have specific accuracy requirements and may be required for real estate or formal documentation. For understanding whether your home has a radon issue, a well-placed Airthings monitor that's been running for several weeks is genuinely informative. For formal testing purposes, a professional test is the standard.
Question linkFor the purpose of a formal real estate transaction, the parties typically require a test conducted by a licensed professional using approved methods. An Airthings continuous monitor is excellent for home awareness but isn't a substitute for a licensed test in most real estate contexts.
Question linkShort-term passive test kits (the ones you hang for 48-96 hours) capture a very narrow window and can be heavily influenced by conditions during that specific period. If the Airthings has been running for weeks and the long-term average is significantly different from the test kit result, the Airthings long-term reading probably gives a better picture of what the home is actually like. When in doubt, a professional test provides a useful third data point.
Question linkDifferent monitors use different sensor technologies and sampling methods, and they may be placed in different spots in the house. Some variation between devices is expected. If both are showing readings in the same general range - say both in the 3-4 pCi/L range - they're probably both telling a similar story. Large discrepancies in the same location at the same time would be worth investigating.
Question linkFirmware updates for Bluetooth devices like the Wave Radon are typically pushed automatically when the device syncs with the app. Make sure the app is up to date, and the next time you sync, any available firmware update should install. You generally don't need to do anything manually.
Question linkYes, firmware updates generally improve performance, fix bugs, or improve sensor accuracy. Installing them is recommended. Make sure your phone stays close to the device and the app stays open during the update.
Question linkYes, you can request account deletion through the Airthings app or support portal. This will remove your account and associated data. If you're just switching phones or removing a device, you don't need to delete the whole account - just log in on your new device or remove the specific device.
Question linkYou can delete your existing Airthings account and create a new one with the same email address, or use a different email. If you just want a fresh start with the device data, resetting the device and removing it from your account is sufficient without deleting the whole account.
Question linkA cloud error usually means the app can't reach Airthings' servers - either because your internet connection is down or there's a temporary server issue on Airthings' end. Check that your phone has internet access. If your connection is fine, try again in a few minutes. Airthings server outages are rare but do happen occasionally.
Question linkIf the nursery is on the main floor or above and not the lowest level of the home, it's not typically the priority placement - radon enters from below and levels are usually highest in basements. Even so, you can certainly add a monitor to the nursery for peace of mind. The most important measurement is in the lowest level where people spend time regularly.
Question linkIt's worth knowing, but for a real estate purchase you'd want your own test done - ideally a professional test conducted specifically for the transaction. The Airthings data is interesting context, but you can't verify where it was placed, how long it's been running, or whether it's functioning properly without your own independent check.
Question linkConstruction can affect radon readings significantly - opening up the floor, disrupting soil, changing airflow. Moving the monitor to a different level during heavy basement work and then returning it afterward makes sense. The readings during active construction won't represent normal conditions.
Question linkGive it more time. After a new mitigation system is installed, radon levels can take a few weeks to fully stabilize in the new equilibrium. Also, the long-term average in the Airthings takes time to reflect recent improvements - it's weighted toward older readings. If after 30 to 60 days the long-term average is still above 4.0, the system may need adjustment. Let us know and we can take a look.
Question linkYes - a reduction from 1.2 to 0.8 is a positive sign, though both numbers are below the concern threshold to begin with. If your pre-mitigation readings were higher and have dropped, that's the mitigation doing its job.
Question linkNo - most Airthings consumer devices aren't designed for crawlspace conditions, and the relevant measurement for health purposes is in the living space, not the crawlspace itself. Place it in the lowest lived-in floor of your home. The crawlspace may be where radon enters, but the bedroom or family room is where your family is exposed.
Question linkYes - being close to a window that opens regularly can show lower readings when the window is open and higher when it's closed, because the fresh air dilutes the radon near the sensor. Place the monitor away from windows, doors, and exterior walls for readings that better represent your actual living environment.
Question linkThe basement, if it's a lived-in space. Radon levels are almost always higher in the basement and ground floor than upper floors. The basement is where you want to know what's happening. If your basement is unfinished storage and no one spends time there, the first floor is the practical choice.
Question linkRadon levels in a given home reflect the home's construction and the radon source beneath it - they don't go away on their own. Three months at 4.5 pCi/L is a stable pattern that tells you the house has a genuine radon issue. Mitigation is the answer. Give us a call and we can talk through what that looks like for your home.
Question linkI understand the fear, and I want to be straightforward with you: that's a high level and worth taking seriously. But radon risk is cumulative over many years, and the right response now is to fix the problem - not to panic about what's already happened. Get mitigation done as soon as you can, talk to your doctor if you have specific health concerns, and know that mitigation is highly effective at bringing levels down. We can help with the evaluation and next steps.
Question link"Take action" in the app means your radon readings have crossed a threshold where the EPA recommends doing something about it - typically 4.0 pCi/L or above. The practical steps are: confirm the reading is real (not just a short-term spike) by looking at the long-term average, then contact a radon mitigation professional to evaluate the home. We can help with that - just give us a call or fill out the form on our website.
Question linkAirthings monitors are generally reliable for consumer use, but it's fair for a landlord to want a second opinion with a licensed test. If the long-term average has been consistently elevated over several weeks, the probability of a calibration error being that persistent is low. You could suggest a professional test as a neutral third-party verification.
Question linkNew windows that seal better could reduce some of the negative pressure that draws radon in, but this isn't a reliable mitigation strategy. It may cause a modest reduction in some homes. If the reading is still elevated after new windows, the underlying radon source hasn't changed - you'd still need proper mitigation to address it.
Question linkOn the main floor, away from windows and exterior walls. In a slab-on-grade home, the main floor is the lowest lived-in level, and radon can still enter through the slab. Place it in a bedroom or frequently used living space.
Question linkYes. Radon levels naturally fluctuate, and the Airthings refreshes its reading periodically. What you're seeing is the sensor accurately tracking those changes. Look at the trend lines in the graph rather than individual point readings - that's where the meaningful pattern shows up.
Question link0.9 pCi/L is a genuinely low reading - well below the national average and well below any action threshold. Your brother isn't wrong that this is a good result. No radon level carries absolutely zero risk, but at 0.9 pCi/L, radon is not a meaningful concern in your home. Let the monitor keep running and check on it periodically.
Question linkEPA certification (specifically AARST/NRPP certification) is a standard for professional testing services and devices used in formal assessments. Consumer continuous monitors like Airthings are not in that certification category, but they're still useful and generally accurate tools for residential monitoring. For decisions about mitigation in your own home, they provide real information. For a formal test result required in a transaction or legal context, a licensed professional test is the appropriate tool.
Question linkIt means radon in your home is in the range where the EPA says it's worth considering mitigation. At 3.7 pCi/L, the risk is real - lower than at 4.0 pCi/L or above, but not negligible. Many people with readings in this range choose to mitigate, and we think that's a reasonable call. At minimum, it's worth having a professional look at the house. We're happy to talk through it - just give us a call.
Question linkThat's a fair question with any cloud-connected device. Downloading your historical data as a CSV from the web dashboard periodically is a good practice if you want to keep your records regardless of what happens to the service.
Question linkVery common in fall. When you close the house up and start running heat, you change the pressure dynamics significantly - the house becomes more sealed and negative pressure from heating pulls more radon up from the soil. The jump you're seeing is real, not a sensor glitch. Let it run for two to three weeks and see where the long-term average settles. If it stays above 4.0, that's worth taking seriously.
Question linkA closet isn't ideal - air in a closed closet doesn't circulate well and may not represent what the rest of the room is like. Put it somewhere with normal room air circulation, like a bedroom wall or a shelf in a frequently used space.
Question linkPut it in the finished part - that's the space people actually occupy, so it reflects real exposure. The unfinished portion may have higher levels since it's closer to the soil, but the living area is what matters for your family's day-to-day exposure.
Question linkThe Airthings Wave is designed for vertical wall mounting. Mounting it sideways or on the ceiling isn't recommended and could affect airflow to the sensor. Stick with wall mounting at the recommended height.
Question linkBetween about two and five feet from the floor is the Airthings guideline. Don't put it directly on the floor - radon concentrations can vary within the room and near-floor placement isn't standard. Mid-wall height is the sweet spot.
Question linkTry to avoid it. The sensor needs to sample room air freely. A tight space behind a bookcase or dresser may restrict airflow and give you a reading that doesn't reflect the broader room. Give it at least a few inches of open space on all sides.
Question linkA bookshelf works. The key is that it's not pressed against anything, not in an enclosed space, and not right next to a door, window, or vent. A shelf in an open area of the room is fine.
Question linkYes. Walkout basements still have at least some below-grade walls and floor area in contact with soil, and radon can still enter. The risk may be somewhat lower than a fully buried basement, but it's not eliminated. It's worth monitoring and measuring.
Question linkThe garage is generally not the right place for a residential radon monitor. Garages have very different air circulation patterns and aren't living spaces. Put it inside the home in a regularly occupied room.
Question linkRadon can still enter pier-and-beam homes through the crawlspace below. Levels may be different than in basement homes but are not necessarily lower. If the crawlspace is open under the house, radon from the soil can migrate up. Monitoring is still worthwhile.
Question linkRadon levels in high-rise apartments are typically very low - radon dissipates as it travels upward and the outdoor air that enters at upper floors dilutes it. Monitoring is not really a concern above the first floor or two in most multi-story buildings. Ground-floor and basement apartments are a different story.
Question linkRadon levels are often higher in winter in most of the US. Houses are more sealed up, and temperature-driven stack effect (warm air rising out of the house and pulling soil air up to replace it) tends to increase in winter. Even so, local conditions vary and some homes see elevated levels in summer too. A continuous monitor like an Airthings captures this seasonal variation over time.
Question linkIn the Airthings app, go to settings and find the notification or alerts section. You can turn off push notifications there, or raise the threshold so you only get notified at higher levels. You can also go into your phone's system settings and turn off notifications for the Airthings app entirely.
Question linkThis occasionally happens if the app didn't properly register the fresh batteries right away. Give it a day and see if the notification clears. If it persists, removing and reinserting the batteries and then syncing the app should reset the battery reading.
Question linkThe Airthings app has some customization options for the dashboard, though they're fairly basic for consumer devices. You can typically choose which metrics are shown and rearrange tiles. Check the app settings - the options available depend on your device model and app version.
Question linkAlert and threshold settings are stored in your Airthings account, not just on the phone. If you reinstall the app and log back in, your settings should come back. If they don't appear, check the device settings in the app and reconfigure.
Question linkYes. The Airthings app lets you switch between pCi/L (used in the US) and Bq/m³ (used in most other countries). This setting is usually in the app preferences or account settings. 1 pCi/L equals 37 Bq/m³, so the numbers look very different but represent the same measurement.
Question linkBq/m³ stands for becquerels per cubic meter - it's the European measurement unit for radon. If your app is showing readings in the hundreds, it may have been switched to Bq/m³ instead of pCi/L. The WHO guideline is 100 Bq/m³, and the EPA action level of 4 pCi/L equals 148 Bq/m³.
Question linkThe app follows your phone's language setting by default. Change the phone language in system settings, then restart the app. If there's an in-app language option, it'll be in the account or settings menu.
Question linkThe Airthings app and web dashboard both offer extended graph views that can show monthly trends. On the web dashboard in particular, you can look at data over a year or more and get a sense of how your levels vary by season.
Question linkThe Airthings Corentium Home is typically the most affordable entry point for radon-only monitoring. It has a built-in display and no app required, which also makes it the simplest option for less tech-savvy users.
Question linkThe main family lines are: the Corentium Home (standalone display, no app needed), the Wave series (Bluetooth-connected, no screen, uses the app, with the Wave Radon for radon only and Wave Plus for multiple air quality sensors), and the View series (Wi-Fi connected with an on-device display). Within each line there are updated versions. For basic home radon monitoring, the Wave Radon or Corentium Home are the go-to choices.
Question linkNo. The Wave Mini measures temperature, humidity, and VOCs - it does not include a radon sensor. Don't confuse it with the Wave Radon or Wave Plus.
Question linkThe Wave Mini is an air quality monitor but doesn't detect radon. You'd need a Wave Radon, Wave Plus, Corentium Home, or another Airthings model that includes the radon sensor. Check the product packaging or Airthings website before buying - the radon sensor is a specific feature, not in every model.
Question linkIf you want a wall-mounted display that shows radon plus CO2, VOC, temperature, and humidity - and you have Wi-Fi - the View Plus is a more complete picture. If radon is all you care about, the View Radon does that job without extra complexity.
Question linkAirthings has a Business line aimed at commercial and professional use cases - the Airthings for Business products. The consumer Wave and Corentium Home products are designed for residential use. For a school or office, the Business line may be more appropriate.
Question linkThe Airthings Space CO2 is aimed at commercial/office air quality monitoring and focuses on CO2 - it's not a radon device. For radon specifically, the consumer Wave and Corentium products are the right line.
Question linkThe Hub plugs into a standard power outlet via USB and connects to your home Wi-Fi. It acts as a bridge between your Bluetooth Airthings devices and the internet. Place it within Bluetooth range of your monitors - same floor, reasonably close.
Question linkThe Airthings Hub can support multiple Bluetooth devices - typically enough to cover a typical home with several monitors. Check the current Airthings Hub product page for the specific limit, as it can vary with firmware updates.
Question linkWith a Hub, syncing happens automatically - your devices stay connected to the cloud without your phone needing to be nearby. You'd only need to open the app to view data, change settings, or set up alerts.
Question linkNear the monitors - that's what matters most. The Hub communicates with your monitors over Bluetooth and with the internet over Wi-Fi. As long as Wi-Fi signal reaches the Hub's location and the Hub is within Bluetooth range of the monitors, placement is flexible.
Question linkCheck that it's plugged in and that your Wi-Fi router is working. The Hub shows up in the app as a device - if it shows offline, try unplugging it for 30 seconds and plugging it back in. If your Wi-Fi network name or password changed recently, the Hub will need to be reconfigured to connect to the updated network.
Question linkYou need the Hub to be within Bluetooth range of the monitors it's serving. In most homes, one Hub in a central location can reach monitors on multiple floors. In very large homes or thick-walled construction, you might need two Hubs to cover all monitors reliably.
Question linkThe Corentium Home doesn't have Bluetooth connectivity (except the Corentium Home 2), so the Hub doesn't work with the original Corentium Home. The Hub is designed for the Bluetooth-enabled Wave series and similar devices.
Question linkYou can note it as context, but for a real estate transaction, get your own independent test done. Placement, calibration state, how long the device has been running, and other factors all matter. Your own test gives you a baseline you can trust.
Question linkNo. For a radon monitor to be useful, it needs to be running with the house in normal closed conditions. Turning it off defeats the purpose. If a home inspector wants to see the radon data, the Airthings reading is useful context - though for a formal test result, a licensed test is the standard.
Question linkThe Airthings Corentium Home. It has a large, clear digital display, runs on batteries, and shows radon readings without any phone, app, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth pairing. He just puts in the batteries and reads the screen. It's by far the simplest option for someone who doesn't use smartphones.
Question linkTell her it's just a measurement of how much radon gas is in the air - like how temperature is measured in degrees. The number that matters is the long-term average on the screen or in the app. Below 2.0 is a good result. Between 2.0 and 4.0 is a "keep an eye on it" zone. At or above 4.0 is where the EPA says it's time to do something about it.
Question linkYes - and frame it practically, not to cause panic. Six years of elevated radon is a cumulative exposure concern, and the right response now is to get the house mitigated. That stops ongoing exposure going forward. You can also suggest they mention it to their doctor as part of normal health context, though a doctor can't undo past exposure, only provide guidance on risk. The most important thing is fixing the house.
Question linkYes. Set up the device on your own Airthings account (or use the sharing feature), and use the Airthings Hub to keep it synced to the cloud. That way, you can check their readings from your phone without them doing anything after the initial setup.
Question linkThe long-term average. That's the number in the app (or on the Corentium Home screen) that reflects what the house is consistently like, smoothed out over weeks or months. A single day's reading can bounce around - the long-term average is what tells you whether you have a real issue.
Question linkRadon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the US after smoking. Unlike many environmental risks, it's invisible and odorless - and unlike many health problems, there's a concrete fix. Red on the Airthings means levels are high enough that the EPA recommends action. The fix is a mitigation system - a vent pipe and fan that usually solves the problem. It's not something to argue about; it's something to fix.
Question linkGive it at least two to four weeks for the long-term average to begin reflecting post-mitigation levels. The long-term average is weighted toward historical data, so it takes time to shift. After 30 to 60 days of monitoring with the mitigation system running, you'll have a reliable picture of what the mitigation achieved.
Question linkThat's a great result. Dropping from 5.8 to 1.4 pCi/L is exactly what a well-functioning mitigation system should do. That's the system working as designed.
Question linkYes - ongoing monitoring is a good idea. Mitigation systems work well, but they're mechanical systems with fans that can fail or degrade over time. Continuing to monitor lets you catch any future problems before levels climb back up. Think of it as the same reason you keep a smoke detector even after you've fixed an electrical issue.
Question linkIt's not too good to be true - mitigation systems can drop radon levels very rapidly. The 0.5 pCi/L reading in the first few days is likely real. What you're watching for over the next month is whether that low level holds as the long-term average adjusts. If it stabilizes in the sub-2.0 range, that's a success.
Question linkMonitoring after mitigation is the responsible approach. Most mitigation professionals recommend ongoing monitoring because it confirms the system is working and catches any future changes. The contractor may mean that an immediate post-mitigation test isn't required for the job to be done - but keeping your Airthings running long-term is still a good idea.
Question linkFor formal post-mitigation verification - the kind you'd use to document compliance or complete a real estate transaction - a licensed test is the standard. For your own peace of mind and ongoing monitoring, the Airthings is genuinely useful and gives you continuous data that a one-time test can't provide. The two serve different purposes.
Question linkThe fan is what makes the mitigation system work. Without it running, radon will build back up. Turn the fan back on and give it a week or two - levels should come back down if the system is otherwise functioning properly. If you've been running the fan and levels are still high, something may have changed with the system and it should be inspected.
Question linkYes. That's actually a practical experiment you can run. Monitor your long-term average with normal closed-house conditions, then open windows for a period and watch how the 24-hour reading responds. You'll likely see levels drop significantly with windows open. This demonstrates the effect but isn't a mitigation strategy - you can't run with open windows in winter.
Question linkNot necessarily. Continuing to run it in the same location gives you the most consistent long-term data. If you want to understand radon on a different floor or in a different part of the house, you could move it temporarily. But for ongoing awareness, consistent placement is valuable.
Question linkThe Airthings app supports the dark/light mode setting on your phone - it will follow your system preference on most recent versions. Check your phone's display settings if you want to switch.
Question linkYes. In the device settings in the Airthings app, you can give each device a custom name. This is useful if you have multiple monitors in different rooms or locations.
Question linkGive each one a custom name in the app settings - "Basement Bedroom" and "First Floor," for example. That way the dashboard is easy to read at a glance.
Question linkCheck that the device was added and paired correctly. If the device is paired but the radon tile isn't showing, try refreshing the app or checking for a firmware update on the device. In rare cases, removing and re-adding the device clears display glitches.
Question linkAirthings has offered home screen widgets on some versions of the app for both iOS and Android. Widget availability can change with app updates - check the current app version for widget options.
Question linkAirthings doesn't have a dedicated Apple Watch app, but some smart home integrations that include Airthings may be accessible from a watch via third-party apps or Siri shortcuts. It's not a native Airthings feature.
Question linkThe location shown in the app is just a label for your own organization - it doesn't affect the radon readings. You can edit the device location name in the device settings.
Question linkYes. With the sharing feature, you can add multiple homes and multiple devices to one account, or share access across accounts. A family checking on readings at an elderly parent's house is a common use case.
Question linkIn the app, the device status will usually show whether it's syncing via Hub or Bluetooth. If you have a Hub, the device should show as online even when your phone isn't home - that's the clearest sign the Hub is doing its job.
Question linkIf your internet goes out, the Hub can't sync data to the cloud, but the monitors themselves keep recording locally. When internet is restored, the Hub catches up with syncing. For the rare case of extended outages, the devices hold data until they can send it.
Question linkYou'll need to reconfigure the Hub's Wi-Fi settings. This usually involves pressing the Hub's setup button and going through the network connection steps in the Airthings app again with the new password.
Question linkIn the Airthings app, go to device settings and update the name or location. The physical device doesn't know or care where it is - the change is just for your own organization in the app.
Question linkNo. Your Airthings device works in any home. Just pack it when you move, set it up in the new location, and it will start building a new baseline for the new house. The historical data from the old house will still be in your account.
Question link"Needs attention" could mean several things: low battery, the device hasn't synced recently, radon levels have triggered an alert, or there's a firmware issue. Tap on the notification or the device in the app to see the specific reason.
Question linkThe Airthings app doesn't typically offer a setting to disable the wave gesture, and the LED response to waving doesn't use significant power. It's not a meaningful battery drain to worry about.
Question linkThe Hub connects to your Wi-Fi by SSID and password, so moving it to a different outlet shouldn't matter as long as Wi-Fi signal reaches the new location and the monitors are still within Bluetooth range. If it's not connecting, try unplugging for 30 seconds and replugging. If it still won't connect, check that the new location has adequate Wi-Fi signal.
Question linkThe Wave Radon can blink during Bluetooth syncing or when a firmware update is in progress. If it's blinking steadily and not during an obvious sync event, check the Airthings support documentation for your specific device - different blink patterns can mean different states.
Question linkNot really. The device doesn't have filters to clean or physical components to maintain. Keep it free of dust buildup around the sensor area. The main maintenance is keeping batteries fresh and keeping the app and firmware updated.
Question linkCheck for visible damage - cracked housing, loose batteries, or a broken battery compartment. If it looks physically intact, put the batteries back in and let it run. Give it an hour or two and see if it starts reading normally. If the reading is clearly wrong or the device won't respond at all, contact Airthings support.
Question linkRemove the batteries immediately, let the device dry completely for 24 to 48 hours, then try putting the batteries back in. Consumer electronics that have been wet often have issues even after drying - if it doesn't work normally, contact Airthings support and check your warranty.
Question linkThe app may prompt you to log notes about conditions in your home - like whether windows are open or activities happening - to give context to the readings. This is optional. It can be useful for understanding spikes in your history, but you don't have to fill it in.
Question linkYes. Airthings has a community forum on their website where users post questions and help each other. For device-specific issues, Airthings support is the authoritative source, but the forum can be useful for seeing how others have solved similar issues.
Question linkGo to airthings.com, navigate to "Support" or "Help," and search for your specific model name. The Airthings support documentation is organized by product, and most common questions about setup, troubleshooting, and connectivity are covered there.
Question linkAirthings' primary support channel is through their website support portal and email/chat, not a phone line. Check airthings.com/support for current contact options.
Question linkCheck your spam or junk folder first. If it's not there, try logging into the Airthings app with the email and password you used - if you can log in, the account was created even without the confirmation email. If you can't log in, try the account creation process again.
Question linkThe account requires an email address and password. For personal use, Airthings doesn't require much beyond that. How much personal information you provide is up to you.
Question linkChange your password immediately through the Airthings website. Check if your email account has also been compromised - this is often how account takeovers happen. If you can't access your account, contact Airthings support directly.
Question linkAirthings has a privacy policy that covers how they handle your data. For the specifics, review the Airthings privacy policy at airthings.com. They do note that they may use anonymized data for research or product improvement, but individual data sharing practices are covered in their policy.
Question linkIn high-radon geology areas, getting a professional licensed test in addition to running an Airthings monitor is a reasonable approach. The Airthings gives you continuous data and catches changes over time. A licensed professional test gives you a formal, accurate baseline. Using both together gives you the most complete picture.
Question linkYes - radon levels often have seasonal patterns, and a monitor that's only been running for one season may not represent the year-round picture. Airthings recommends running the monitor for at least 30 days, but a full year of data gives you the most accurate picture of what the home is like across all conditions.
Question linkIt's a reasonable thing to do. Radon is local - the fact that your neighbor had elevated levels doesn't automatically mean you do, but it does mean you're in an area where radon is real. Getting a monitor is a low-effort way to know where your home stands. The Airthings Wave Radon or Corentium Home are solid starting points.
Question linkFor most homes, one monitor in the lowest lived-in level is the standard approach - that's where levels are highest and where mitigation decisions are based. If you want to understand radon throughout the house, adding monitors on upper floors is useful context, but the basement or ground floor is the priority measurement.
Question linkYou don't have to update immediately, but updates generally fix bugs and improve reliability. Staying on a very outdated version may eventually cause connectivity or display issues. It's a good habit to keep the app reasonably current.
Question linkIf you accidentally removed the device from your account and re-added it, that can break the history association. History that was synced to the cloud should still be there - contact Airthings support with your account information and they may be able to help recover it. Going forward, export your data periodically as a backup.
Question linkThe app displays timestamps based on your phone's time zone setting. If you recently changed time zones or the phone's clock is off, it can affect how data is labeled. Check your phone's date and time settings to make sure they're set correctly and to the right time zone.
Question linkAt 2.2 pCi/L, you're in the range where the EPA says the risk is lower but real - not at the action threshold, but above the national average. "Completely fine" isn't really how radon works since there's no zero-risk level, but 2.2 is well below where action is recommended. Keep monitoring and if it creeps up toward 4.0 over time, revisit the question.
Question linkAirthings states a sensor lifespan in their product documentation - check the current specs for your model. Some devices have a sensor life indicator in the app. If the device is many years old and readings seem implausibly stable or zero even in conditions where you'd expect variation, the sensor lifespan may be an issue. Contacting Airthings support is the right call.
Question linkCO2 over 1000 ppm is not dangerous - people exhale CO2 in a closed room and it naturally builds up overnight. The concern threshold for CO2 from an air quality standpoint is generally much higher. What it does indicate is that a closed bedroom with multiple people in it isn't getting much fresh air, which can affect sleep quality. Opening a window slightly or improving ventilation can help.
Question linkhomes can sometimes have more radon entry points - aging foundation cracks, unsealed penetrations, older construction methods without vapor barriers. But radon levels are more determined by the geology under the house than the age of it. New and homes alike can have high or low radon. The only way to know is to measure.
Question linkAirthings sends optional weekly email or in-app summary reports for some account types. If you're getting them, they come from Airthings directly based on your account settings. You can manage those in your account notification preferences.
Question linkDon't panic - but don't ignore it either. Three days of data at 8.0 pCi/L is a real signal. At that level the long-term average will likely stay elevated unless there's some unusual condition. Confirm by checking conditions (house closed up, no recent HVAC work or weather event?), give it another week to see where the long-term average settles, and then contact a mitigation professional. At 8.0 pCi/L, this is worth addressing. Give us a call and we can walk through it.
Question linkIn many cases, yes - mitigation installations are often scheduled within one to two weeks. Call a local mitigation professional right away. Two weeks is tight but doable if someone has availability. Either way, the reading should be disclosed and addressed.
Question linkIt depends on the purpose. For your own awareness and home monitoring, the Airthings is the right tool. For formal purposes - real estate transactions, insurance, or documentation - a licensed professional test is typically required. The two aren't mutually exclusive, and having both a continuous monitor and a formal test on file is actually a comprehensive approach.
Question linkAt 3.5 pCi/L long-term, you're in the zone where the EPA says it's worth considering mitigation - not an emergency, but a real risk that doesn't go away on its own. With a new baby coming, it's a reasonable time to have a professional look at your home and assess whether mitigation makes sense. The peace of mind alone is worth the conversation. Give us a call.
Question linkAirthings periodically runs promotions that may include trade-in or upgrade deals. Check their website for current offers - this kind of thing changes and isn't something to rely on as a standing program.
Question linkQuestions are fine too. Call or text Bill, or send your address and contact info, and he will take it from there.
Reviewed by Bill Dahlstrom, Illinois radon mitigation license RNM2018212.