This page brings together general radon monitor and homeowner questions that do not fit neatly into one smaller topic. The questions cover electronic monitors, averages, readings, test conditions, and the way radon information connects to mitigation decisions. American Radon Systems does not sell monitors or testing, so the guidance stays educational and practical. A device or test can help show a pattern, but the home still matters: foundation type, lower-level use, sump and crawlspace details, passive piping, fan operation, and whether the reading remains elevated. If the information points toward a mitigation need, Bill can review the house and explain the system or repair options.
An electronic radon monitor is a device you leave in your home to track radon levels continuously. Unlike a short-term charcoal canister test you send to a lab, an electronic monitor stays in place and updates its reading regularly - most show 24-hour, 7-day, and long-term averages. If you've just had a mitigation system installed, a continuous monitor is a good way to keep an eye on levels year to year.
Question linkMost consumer monitors use either an ionization chamber or alpha spectrometry to detect radon. When radon decays inside the sensing chamber, it releases alpha particles that the detector counts. The device uses those counts to calculate a radon concentration and display it in pCi/L (or Bq/m³ in some international models). The more counts it accumulates, the more statistically reliable the reading - which is why accuracy improves over hours and days of continuous monitoring.
Question linkYes, when used correctly. Quality consumer monitors are accurate within about ±10% after 7 days of continuous operation. Some models using pulsed ionization chambers reach comparable accuracy within 1-10 hours. The key is placement - a monitor in a kitchen, bathroom, or on the floor will give misleading readings regardless of the device's quality. Place it in the lowest occupied room, in the breathing zone (20 inches to 6 feet off the floor), away from vents and windows.
Question linkA professional short-term test is placed under a defined testing protocol and gives a documented result. A consumer monitor gives a continuous reading under real-world conditions - helpful for long-term tracking but not a replacement for a professional test when you're making a mitigation or real estate decision. If you are deciding whether to install a system, use reliable testing and the overall home situation rather than one quick monitor reading. After installation, a consumer monitor is great for ongoing peace of mind.
Question linkpCi/L stands for picocuries per liter - a unit that measures radioactive concentration in air. For radon, the EPA action level is 4.0 pCi/L. The US average indoor level is about 1.3 pCi/L. A reading of 1.0 pCi/L is normal background; a reading of 8.0 pCi/L is roughly twice the action level and worth addressing. A properly designed mitigation system is intended to bring levels down substantially, with the final result confirmed by post-mitigation testing.
Question linkBq/m³ (becquerels per cubic meter) is the international unit for radon. To convert: 1 pCi/L = 37 Bq/m³. The EPA action level (4.0 pCi/L) is equivalent to about 148 Bq/m³. Some monitors (particularly international versions of Airthings and RadonEye) display in Bq/m³ by default - check the settings to switch to pCi/L if you're in the US.
Question linkThe sensing elements in electronic monitors can drift over time, but most consumer monitors don't have a hard expiration date. Manufacturers generally design them for 5-10 years of reliable use. If your monitor is more than 10 years old and you're using it to make a mitigation decision, consider replacing it or comparing against a fresh professional test. Monitors that have been dropped, exposed to extreme humidity, or stored improperly may give inaccurate readings.
Question linkThey serve different purposes. A charcoal canister short-term test (48-96 hours) gives you a snapshot that's suitable for a real estate decision or pre-mitigation baseline. A continuous electronic monitor gives you ongoing trend data - great for post-mitigation monitoring and long-term peace of mind. If you want to know your radon level before making a decision, get a professional test. If you want to track levels year-round after mitigation is done, a consumer monitor is ideal.
Question linkThese terms are often used interchangeably. In practice, "monitor" usually refers to a device that continuously samples and updates readings, while "detector" can refer to either a continuous device or a passive test device (charcoal canister, alpha track). Electronic devices sold for home use are typically continuous monitors regardless of what the packaging calls them.
Question linkThe EPA recommends fixing if your level is 4.0 pCi/L or higher. The EPA also says consider fixing at 2.0-4.0 pCi/L - the risk is lower but real. Below 2.0 pCi/L approaches outdoor background levels. If you are getting readings in the 3-4 range consistently and there are young children in the home, that's worth a conversation. Call or text Bill and we can talk through what the numbers mean for your situation.
Question linkYes - this is completely normal. Weather, barometric pressure, temperature, ventilation, and even opening windows can cause readings to swing by 50% or more in a single day. This is why the long-term average matters far more than any single reading. A 24-hour spike doesn't represent your actual exposure level. If your 30-day or 90-day average is consistently elevated, that's meaningful data.
Question linkThe EPA says levels in this range are worth considering mitigation - the risk is lower than above 4.0 pCi/L, but it's not zero. If you are planning to stay in the home long-term, have young children, or smoke, it's worth a conversation. Give us a call and we can talk through whether your situation warrants action or ongoing monitoring.
Question linkA short-term test runs for 2-7 days under closed-house conditions. A long-term test (alpha track) runs for 90-365 days and captures seasonal variation. Professional short-term tests are used for real estate transactions. Long-term tests are considered more representative of actual exposure. Consumer electronic monitors running for 30+ days give you an ongoing picture that falls between the two.
Question linkThe Wave series (Wave Radon, Wave Plus) are battery-powered monitors that connect via Bluetooth to the Airthings app - no screen on the device; you wave your hand in front of it for a quick LED color check or open the app for the actual reading. The View series (View Radon, View Plus) have a built-in screen, connect via Wi-Fi directly to the cloud, and can act as a hub for Wave devices. If you want a standalone screen and remote access without a separate hub, the View Radon is the simpler choice.
Question linkWi-Fi monitors (Airthings View series, Ecosense EcoQube) sync continuously to the cloud and let you check radon levels from anywhere on your phone. Bluetooth monitors (Wave Radon, EcoQube Flex, RadonEye RD200) sync when your phone is nearby. If you travel and want to check your home's radon remotely, Wi-Fi is useful. For most homeowners who just want ongoing monitoring at home, Bluetooth is sufficient and usually simpler to set up.
Question linkFor most homeowners, yes. The Corentium Home 2 adds temperature and humidity tracking, doubles battery life (3 years vs 1.5 years), improves the display to a touchscreen with more data views, and adds SmartLink for optional hub integration. The price difference is modest.
Question linkThe EcoQube Flex runs on 2 AA batteries (up to 7 years in offline mode) and connects via Bluetooth only - it works anywhere without Wi-Fi or a power outlet. The regular EcoQube (EQ100) requires a power outlet and Wi-Fi connection. The Flex is better for basements or areas without convenient power or Wi-Fi; the regular EcoQube is better for continuous cloud monitoring in a Wi-Fi-connected home.
Question linkIt bridges both. The RD200 is fast and accurate with a real OLED display - useful for homeowners who want a reading without opening an app. Many real estate professionals use it for quick pre-purchase checks. The standard RD200 is a consumer product; the RD200P is the professional version with Wi-Fi and report generation. For a homeowner doing post-mitigation monitoring, the RD200 works well.
Question linkIt can. Finishing a basement means adding flooring and walls over what was previously an unfinished slab and foundation - this can change radon entry patterns and make later sub-slab work more disruptive. If you don't have a mitigation system, installing one before finishing is much easier and less expensive than retrofitting after drywall is up. Call Bill before you start the project.
Question linkYes. A new addition changes the foundation footprint and may introduce new sub-slab areas that weren't part of the original mitigation system. Retest after the addition is complete, and if the system's coverage doesn't extend to the new section, an expansion or additional suction point may be needed.
Question linkSpray foam can seal some pathways radon uses to enter through foundation walls, which can modestly reduce radon levels in some homes. However, it's not a substitute for sub-slab depressurization. If your primary radon entry is through the slab and sub-slab soil (the most common path), spray foam on walls has limited impact. If levels remain elevated after spray foam, a mitigation system is the reliable fix.
Question linkYes, and this is actually a good combination. An alpha track detector (90+ day) gives you a long-term licensed average; your electronic monitor gives you continuous real-time data and shorter-term trends. The two methods will typically converge toward similar long-term averages when properly placed. Any significant disagreement between the two is worth investigating.
Question linkMost consumer monitors can detect radon levels down to 0.1-0.3 pCi/L. At very low levels (below 0.5 pCi/L), readings are less statistically reliable because there are fewer decay events to count. A reading of 0.2 pCi/L is real but means very little for health assessment - it's essentially background noise.
Question linkConsumer monitors don't require user calibration in the field - they're factory calibrated and designed for multi-year operation. There's no official consumer recalibration program for most brands. If you suspect your monitor is inaccurate (readings seem inconsistent with a professional test), compare it against a fresh professional test result. If there's a large consistent discrepancy, consider replacing the monitor.
Question linkConsumer monitors are designed and rated for residential use. They can give useful data in a small commercial space (office, home-based business), but they're not licensed for commercial or workplace radon monitoring. OSHA has separate guidelines for radon in workplaces, and licensed measurement equipment is required for official commercial radon assessments.
Question linkHigh CO2 (above 1,000 ppm) typically indicates inadequate ventilation - too many people in the space relative to fresh air intake. It's a comfort and cognitive issue, not an immediate health emergency at 1,100 ppm. For the radon: 3.5 pCi/L is below the action level but worth monitoring. For the CO2: increasing ventilation (opening windows when weather allows, or upgrading to an ERV/HRV) will help. These are separate issues with separate solutions.
Question linkA 90-day average of 4.3 pCi/L is a reliable result that warrants mitigation. It's above the EPA action level and well-established by 90 days of data. Call or text Bill - we'll schedule a site visit to look at your home's foundation and sub-slab conditions, and we can typically have a system running within a couple of weeks.
Question linkNo good reason - in fact, leaving it in one consistent location gives you the most comparable long-term data. You can correlate readings year over year and spot any trends (gradual increase might indicate fan degradation; sudden increase might indicate a new entry point). The only reason to move it would be to check another area of the home or to replace it after the design lifespan.
Question linkOn most monitors, "long-term" means since the last reset (or since the device was first powered on). This could be 30 days, 90 days, or years of data. The 30-day view gives a rolling month window. For understanding your typical level, a 90+ day average that spans seasonal variation is more representative than 30 days. After a year of continuous monitoring, your "long-term" average is very meaningful.
Question linkAbout 1.3 pCi/L is the US national indoor average. Levels above this are common depending on local geology and home construction.
Question linkAbout 0.4 pCi/L on average outdoors. This is why mitigation systems don't reduce indoor levels to zero - they target bringing indoor levels close to this background.
Question linkKeeping exterior windows and doors closed (except for normal entry/exit) for at least 12 hours before and during a professional short-term radon test. Normal HVAC operation is fine; the point is preventing outdoor air dilution of indoor radon.
Question linkA properly designed system draws air from below the slab, not from your living space. The effect on house pressure should be minimal. An improperly sized system can occasionally create slight negative pressure if it's drawing too much air - Bill assesses this during installation to make sure the system is balanced.
Question linkRadon is found in all 50 states. Illinois is classified by the EPA as Zone 1 (highest potential) across much of the northern and central parts of the state. But even Zone 3 areas can have individual homes with high radon - geology varies at the neighborhood and block level.
Question linkNot necessarily. Concrete is porous and can transmit radon. Slab-on-grade homes can have elevated radon just as homes with basements can. The sub-slab soil composition matters more than the presence of concrete.
Question linkGas appliances that draw combustion air from the home create negative pressure that can pull more radon in from the sub-slab. This is part of why combustion appliances should use sealed, direct-vent systems. If you've recently added a sealed combustion furnace, it may reduce the depressurization that was drawing radon into the home - which could result in lower radon levels.
Question linkIn some parts of the country, private well water can contain dissolved radon that is released into the air when the water is used (showering, washing dishes). This is more common in areas with granite bedrock. Municipal water supplies typically treat for radon. If your home is on a well and radon levels are a concern, water testing is a separate step from air testing.
Question linkYes - radon doesn't need visible cracks. It can diffuse through porous concrete, enter through the gap between the slab and foundation wall (the "cold joint"), and travel through hollow-core block walls. The invisible pathways are often the primary entry routes.
Question linkSub-slab depressurization (SSD) is the most common and effective form of radon mitigation. It involves drilling a hole through the foundation slab, inserting a pipe into the sub-slab material, and connecting a fan that continuously pulls air from below the slab and exhausts it outside. This creates negative pressure under the slab that prevents radon from entering the home. It's the standard for Illinois installations.
Question linkYes - sub-slab depressurization draws out sub-slab moisture along with radon. Many homeowners notice reduced basement humidity and dampness after a system is installed. This is a secondary benefit, not the primary goal, but it's real.
Question linkPossibly. For homes larger than about 2,500 sq ft, or homes with complex sub-slab layouts, multiple suction points - and sometimes multiple fans - may be needed to depressurize the entire area under the slab. Bill assesses sub-slab communication during the site visit to determine how many suction points are needed for effective coverage.
Question linkIn an unfinished basement, sealing the slab surface with plastic sheeting or epoxy coating may modestly reduce radon entry, but it's not an effective long-term solution because radon still enters through cracks, pipe penetrations, and the cold joint. Active sub-slab depressurization addresses the source rather than trying to block the symptom.
Question linkA dehumidifier draws in basement air and removes moisture, then recirculates the air. It doesn't significantly change radon levels - it doesn't vent radon-containing air outside. In some cases a dehumidifier running near a test device can cause air movement that slightly affects readings. For testing purposes, don't place a monitor directly in the airflow of a dehumidifier.
Question linkAn attic is not a living space and is not where radon exposure occurs - radon concentrations in attics are typically near or below outdoor background levels (radon vents up). There's no radon monitoring value in placing a device in an attic.
Question linkAir conditioning recirculates interior air without introducing outside air, so it has minimal effect on radon levels. HVAC systems with active fresh air intake (ERV, HRV) can dilute radon when pulling in outdoor air. A traditional central AC system doesn't significantly change radon concentration.
Question linkPlace it on the lowest occupied level of your home - usually the basement. Height should be in the breathing zone: at least 20 inches off the floor, no higher than 6 feet. A bookshelf, nightstand, or countertop in a basement bedroom or family room is ideal. Keep it away from kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, and directly next to windows or exterior doors.
Question linkThe basement if you have one, even if it's unfinished. Radon levels are almost always highest at the lowest level - that's where radon enters the home. Testing on the main floor or above will give you lower readings that don't reflect your worst-case exposure. If you are making a mitigation decision, the basement reading is what matters.
Question linkStill in the basement, if possible. Place it in the most central, accessible location - not in a closet or utility corner, but an open area. Even if the basement is unfinished, the readings there are what matter for understanding your home's radon entry level. If the basement is truly not accessible (utility access only), place the monitor on the first floor and note that basement levels would likely be higher.
Question linkNo - this is one of the locations to avoid. Kitchens have frequent humidity changes from cooking, ventilation from range hoods, and combustion products that can interfere with some radon sensors. Placement here won't give you a representative reading. Use a living room, family room, or bedroom on the lowest occupied level instead.
Question linkBetween 20 inches and 6 feet - the breathing zone. At least table or countertop height. Don't place it on the floor (radon doesn't settle at floor level, but air mixing is minimal near the floor). Don't place it on a high shelf above 6 feet - that's above typical breathing height.
Question linkNo. Closets have stagnant air that's not representative of the room's radon level. Air mixing in a closed closet is minimal - the monitor will measure the small pocket of air in that space, not the room you're actually breathing in. Put it in the open room.
Question linkOn the first floor - the lowest occupied level for a crawlspace home. The crawlspace itself is not occupied and the conditions inside it are extreme (very high radon is possible directly under the vapor barrier or floor structure). Testing on the first floor gives you the level your family is actually exposed to. Place the monitor in the living room or a bedroom, away from exterior walls and vents.
Question linkOn the first floor, in the main living area. A living room, den, or bedroom away from the kitchen and bathroom is ideal. Same height rules apply - between 20 inches and 6 feet above floor. For slab homes, the first floor is your entry level for radon, so that's the right place to test.
Question linkAvoid placing it right next to a window. When the window is open, the monitor will measure diluted outdoor air, giving you a falsely low reading. Keep at least 12 inches from any exterior window or door, and note that readings taken during periods of open-window ventilation won't represent your closed-house level.
Question linkNo - garages aren't living spaces and typically have combustion sources (cars, lawnmowers, gas cans) that can interfere with sensors. More importantly, garage levels don't represent the radon your family is breathing in the living areas of the home.
Question linkAt least 3 feet from a supply vent. Supply vents blow conditioned air that can dilute local radon concentrations and give a falsely low reading. Return air vents have less impact, but a few feet of clearance is still good practice.
Question linkFor the most useful data, leave it in one place long enough to get a stable long-term average (30+ days). Moving it frequently means each location's average is too short to be meaningful. If you want to check multiple areas of a large home, either run multiple monitors simultaneously or leave one in each location for at least a month before moving it.
Question linkPotentially. If the sump pit lid has gaps or is not properly sealed, it can create a localized high-radon area near the sump. A monitor placed very close to an open sump may read higher than the room average. For a representative basement reading, place the monitor at least a few feet away from the sump pit, in the middle of the room rather than near a known entry point.
Question linkThe 24-hour average reflects the mean radon level over the last 24 hours. It's useful for spotting recent changes (like after a storm or after you've been opening windows) but it's not the number to use when deciding whether to mitigate. A single 24-hour reading can be twice as high or half as high as your true long-term level depending on weather and conditions that day.
Question linkTrust the 7-day average more. Current readings fluctuate constantly based on barometric pressure, weather, and ventilation. The 7-day average smooths out those swings and gives a better picture of your typical level. For the most meaningful data, look at the 30-day average or longer.
Question linkOvernight spikes are common and usually reflect natural pressure changes. When outdoor temperature drops overnight, indoor-outdoor pressure differences increase - this drives more radon through foundation cracks. Low-pressure weather systems (approaching storms) also tend to pull more radon into homes. A single overnight spike is not representative of your long-term exposure. If your long-term average is elevated, that's the number to act on.
Question linkAirthings displays green for readings below 4.0 pCi/L. The 3.8 pCi/L reading is technically below the EPA action level, so the green color is accurate by that threshold. Even so, the EPA does say consider mitigation at 2.0-4.0 pCi/L, especially for long-term residents. If you are consistently at 3.5-4.0 pCi/L, it's worth a conversation. Call or text Bill and we can help you think it through.
Question linkThe current (or short-term) reading reflects recent radon levels - often just the last hour or few hours. The long-term average accumulates over weeks or months. The long-term average is what matters for health exposure assessment. Think of the current reading as your weather forecast right now versus your monthly average temperature - both are real, but one tells you about the season, not just the moment.
Question linkYes, very normal. Winter closed-house conditions let radon accumulate that was previously diluted by ventilation. The open-window summer readings were artificially low; the closed-house winter readings are closer to your actual year-round exposure level. If your winter average is consistently above 4.0 pCi/L, that's the level that matters for your health risk, and mitigation is worth considering.
Question linkNot exactly - a reading of 0.3 pCi/L just means the level is very low, below indoor background levels. All air has trace amounts of radon; even outdoor air is typically around 0.4 pCi/L on average. A reading this low is good news. It may also reflect ventilation (recently opened windows) or a monitor still settling in. Check the long-term average after 30 days for a more stable picture.
Question linkThe seasonal swing you're describing is typical - radon is generally higher in winter (closed house, stack effect) and lower in summer (open windows). The winter number is more representative of the level during the months when your home is tightly sealed. If you are spending significant time in the basement and seeing consistent winter averages above 4.0 pCi/L, mitigation makes sense. A professional annual test run in the winter gives the most conservative and representative reading.
Question linkYes - radon levels decrease with height. The basement is almost always the highest. First floor is typically 30-50% lower than the basement. Second floor and above are usually much lower still. The basement (or lowest occupied level) is always the right place to measure for mitigation decisions because it represents the worst-case exposure and the point where radon enters the home.
Question linkMultiply pCi/L by 37 to get Bq/m³. Divide Bq/m³ by 37 to get pCi/L. So 4.0 pCi/L = 148 Bq/m³. The EPA action level of 4.0 pCi/L is equivalent to about 148 Bq/m³. Some monitors (especially international versions) default to Bq/m³ - check your device settings to switch to pCi/L.
Question linkYes. The EPA action level isn't a sharp threshold below which radon is harmless - it's the level at which mitigation is clearly recommended. At 4.2 pCi/L, you're above that line. The good news: a properly installed mitigation system is intended to bring levels down substantially. mitigation is a practical, one-time home improvement. Give Bill a call and we can take a look at your home.
Question linkSignificantly. Sub-slab conditions, foundation type, and distance from entry points all affect local readings. A monitor in the northeast corner of a basement may read quite differently from one in the southwest corner - especially in homes with multiple rooms, finished sections, and different sub-slab materials. One monitor gives a reasonable picture of the overall level; multiple monitors in different sections of a large basement give better coverage.
Question linkNo - but do pay attention to it. A single reading of 12 pCi/L can be a temporary spike (barometric pressure drop, recent ventilation event). Look at your 7-day and long-term averages. If those are also elevated, that's when action is warranted. If the spike was isolated, let the monitor run for another few weeks and check the long-term average. If you are still concerned, call or text Bill and we can help you interpret the data.
Question linkIf the View is running on batteries (not USB), it won't act as a hub or cloud-sync. Connect the View to USB power - when USB-powered and Wi-Fi is connected, it syncs every 2.5 minutes and also acts as a hub for other Airthings devices. The on-device display works regardless of connectivity.
Question linkProbably not. Overnight spikes are common and usually reflect a natural pressure event - a storm moving in, a cold front, a significant barometric pressure drop. Radon is driven into homes by pressure differentials, and those can change rapidly with weather. Check your 7-day average to see if the spike is isolated or part of an upward trend. A single night spike is not representative of your long-term level.
Question linkIf it's showing the exact same digit repeatedly with no variation at all, it may have stopped updating. Try opening the Airthings app and manually syncing. If you have a standalone display model, check that the battery isn't depleted (dead batteries can sometimes cause frozen displays). If the reading genuinely hasn't moved at all in two weeks, contact Airthings support.
Question linkAfter a power outage, the View Radon should resume on its own once power is restored. If it's battery-powered it should never have lost readings. If it's USB-powered, it should restart automatically. If the display remains blank, check the USB connection. If Wi-Fi was interrupted, the device may need to reconnect to the network - check the Airthings app for the device status.
Question linkRadon is not perfectly uniformly distributed in a room. Minor placement differences - height, proximity to air currents, distance from the sump, position relative to foundation - can produce different readings in the same space. Both readings are plausible; the truth is somewhere in between. Use the average of the two as your baseline, and note any systematic difference in their placement that might explain the spread.
Question linkThey are completely different gases requiring different detectors. Carbon monoxide (CO) is produced by combustion (furnace, car, water heater) and is an acute danger - CO detectors alarm immediately and you evacuate. Radon is a radioactive gas from the ground that causes lung cancer through long-term exposure - no immediate symptoms. Radon monitors and CO detectors serve different purposes; every home should have CO detectors on each level, separate from any radon monitoring.
Question linkNo - smoke detectors detect smoke particles (optical) or ions from combustion (ionization). Neither technology detects radon. These are separate devices. If you want radon monitoring, you need a radon-specific device.
Question linkYes - always ask for the actual number. "Fine" is subjective. Anything below 4.0 pCi/L is below the EPA action level, but levels at 3.5-4.0 pCi/L are in a range where many people choose to mitigate, especially long-term residents. Knowing the number lets you make an informed decision.
Question linkIt's in the 2.0-4.0 pCi/L range where the EPA says consider mitigation. It's not at the action level, but it's elevated above background. If you plan to stay in the home long-term, especially with children, it's worth a conversation. Give Bill a call - we can discuss whether mitigation makes sense for your situation.
Question linkShort-term averages (24 hours, 7 days) reflect recent conditions - useful for spotting trends but sensitive to weather and ventilation. Long-term averages (30 days, 90 days, 1 year) reflect a more stable picture of your home's radon level across different weather and seasonal patterns. For health exposure assessment, the long-term average matters most. For troubleshooting (did opening windows help?), short-term is useful.
Question linkBoth, but lead with the long-term average. A 24-hour average of 5.2 pCi/L may reflect a storm or recent closed-house conditions; the 2.8 pCi/L long-term tells a more complete story. Tell Bill: "my long-term average is about 2.8 pCi/L but I saw it jump to 5.2 yesterday during a storm." That gives the full picture.
Question linkYes, temporarily. When the fan stops, the pressure below the slab re-equalizes and radon can begin entering the home again. Levels typically take hours to rise to pre-mitigation levels. Once power is restored and the fan restarts, levels drop again. A one-time brief outage has negligible long-term health impact. Extended outages (days) during high-radon conditions are worth noting, especially if you're tracking levels with a consumer monitor.
Question link6.0 pCi/L is well above the EPA action level, and full-time occupancy of a basement at that level is a meaningful long-term health concern. If she's living there as her primary space - sleeping, spending time, cooking - that's a high-exposure situation. Mitigation works for in-law suites the same as for any home, and a system can typically bring levels below 2.0 pCi/L. This is worth prioritizing. Call or text Bill and we can talk through what the installation would involve.
Question linkProbably not - storm-related radon spikes are common and temporary. Rain raises soil moisture and increases subsurface pressure, pushing more radon into the home. A healthy mitigation system handles this well, but a severe storm can temporarily overwhelm it. Check your 24-hour reading after a day or two of dry weather - if it returns to your normal post-mitigation baseline, the system is working. If readings stay elevated for several days, or if the spike is much larger than previous storms, check the manometer and give us a call.
Question linkFan location matters. Moving the fan changes the suction dynamics - where it's positioned affects how effectively it pulls from the suction pit under the slab. Attic-mounted fans are common and work well, but the routing from the suction point needs to be designed correctly for the specific home. If readings went up after the move, there may be a suction loss from a loose connection, a change in pipe routing, or the fan not being matched correctly to the new configuration. Give us a call and we can take a look at what changed.
Question linkThat's a real reading and a great result. 0.8 pCi/L is below the US average indoor radon level of 1.3 pCi/L - you're essentially at outdoor background levels inside your home. Some homes with very effective mitigation hit this range. The system is doing its job well. Keep an eye on your consumer monitor's long-term average year to year to make sure it stays low, and check the manometer twice a year. You're in great shape.
Question linkNothing is broken - that's seasonal variation working in your favor. Radon levels are typically higher in winter (closed house, ground frozen, pressure differential) and lower in summer (more ventilation, different pressure patterns). A summer reading that's lower than your winter post-installation reading is completely normal. Your annual average is what matters for long-term health purposes. If you were tracking your consumer monitor all year, the long-term average is the most meaningful single number.
Question linkNot right now - 1.4 pCi/L is excellent and the system is clearly working. Check the manometer once or twice a year to confirm the fan is still creating suction. Keep an eye on your consumer monitor's long-term average. If it starts climbing or the manometer equalizes, call us. Otherwise, the system is doing its job and no action needed. The 5-year fan warranty is still in effect if anything fails.
Question linkYes, this is normal even after mitigation. Radon levels naturally decrease with elevation in the home - the source is the soil, so floors closer to the slab have higher concentrations. After mitigation, the difference between floors shrinks (because the sub-slab is depressurized), but it doesn't disappear entirely. A basement reading of 1.5 pCi/L and a first-floor reading of 0.9 pCi/L after mitigation is a common and healthy pattern. Nothing to be concerned about.
Question linkCheck it after 48-72 hours for a directional reading - this gives you early confirmation that levels are dropping. But don't make conclusions from those first readings alone. Wait for the 7-day average to stabilize to get a better picture. For the official post-mitigation result, a professional short-term test must be done within 24 hours to 30 days of activation.
Question linkTwo days is still early. The system is actively drawing radon from under the slab, but it takes time to flush elevated air from a home, especially in larger spaces. Check your 7-day average once it's available. If levels are still above 4.0 pCi/L after 7-10 days, call Bill - we'll check the system and make sure everything is performing correctly.
Question linkYes - Illinois code (§ 422.150) requires a post-mitigation test performed by an independent licensed measurement professional within 30 days of system activation. Your consumer monitor is great for ongoing tracking, but it's not a professional test instrument and its reading can't substitute for the code-required professional result.
Question linkThat's an excellent result. Most homes come in well below 2.0 pCi/L after a properly installed system. A long-term average of 1.4 pCi/L is very close to typical outdoor background levels. Keep the monitor in place for ongoing annual tracking, and have the manometer (pressure gauge on the pipe) checked periodically to confirm the fan is still running.
Question linkThat's a great result. Large drops are common when pre-mitigation levels are high and the sub-slab conditions are favorable for depressurization. A drop of 85%+ is not unusual for a well-designed system. Keep the monitor running to confirm those levels hold over time.
Question linkThis is unusual and worth a call to Bill. Occasionally, an improperly installed system can create pressure differentials that draw radon from other parts of the foundation into the living space. More commonly, the system may not be pulling from the right locations. Give us a call and we'll investigate.
Question linkThe simplest check is the manometer - the U-tube pressure gauge on the pipe. If both liquid columns are at the same level, the fan has stopped. If one column is higher than the other, the fan is running. You can also usually hear the fan running quietly. A consumer monitor showing levels climbing back toward pre-mitigation levels is another indicator.
Question linkSeveral factors can cause this difference: test device placement (professional test may be in a different spot), short-term conditions during the test period (weather, ventilation), and the difference in measurement method between a professional continuous radon monitor and your consumer device. Both readings are reasonably close, and 2.6 pCi/L is below the EPA action level. The professional test is the officially recorded result; your consumer monitor provides ongoing tracking.
Question linkYes - 2.2 pCi/L is well below the EPA action level of 4.0 pCi/L and close to typical background levels. The goal of mitigation is to reduce radon to as low as reasonably achievable; most systems aim for below 2.0 pCi/L. If your pre-mitigation level was significantly higher than 2.2 pCi/L, the system is working. Keep monitoring annually.
Question linkCall Bill. Rising levels after a previously successful mitigation can indicate fan failure (check the manometer - equal liquid levels means fan off), new radon entry points, or changes to the foundation. Don't wait to see if it self-corrects - schedule a check of the system.
Question linkYes - periodic retesting is good practice. The EPA recommends retesting every two years or after any major renovation that could affect the foundation (new addition, basement finishing, sump installation). Your consumer monitor provides ongoing tracking, but a professional test every couple of years gives you a licensed benchmark.
Question linkThe manometer is a U-tube gauge filled with colored liquid, usually mounted on the vertical pipe. When the fan is running, suction in the pipe pulls the liquid on the pipe side down, making the exposed side higher. If both sides are equal, the fan is off or not working. If you see unequal levels, the system is active. The exact difference (how much higher one side is) reflects the amount of suction - typical readings are 0.5 to 1.5 inches water column.
Question linkNo - the fan should run continuously, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Sub-slab pressure quickly re-equilibrates when the fan stops, and radon levels can begin rising within hours. The electricity cost for a radon fan is modest - most fans draw 15-100 watts. Turning it off to save power is not worth the risk of radon returning.
Question linkFan location matters most - a fan mounted in an attic above insulation is nearly silent inside the home. A fan mounted in a basement utility room or on an exterior wall near a bedroom is more audible. The fan itself also varies - EC (electronically commutated) fans run quieter than AC motors. Installation with flexible coupling (Fernco or LDVI connector) between the fan and pipe prevents vibration from traveling through the rigid PVC and being amplified by walls. If noise is a concern, it's worth discussing with Bill during installation planning.
Question linkA low, steady hum, typically comparable to a refrigerator or bathroom exhaust fan. You usually hear it near the pipe or fan but not prominently from other rooms. If the system suddenly becomes louder, rattles, or makes a grinding sound, the fan may need inspection. Call Bill.
Question linkMost homes see a noticeable drop within the first 24-48 hours. The fan starts pulling sub-slab air and exhausting it above the roofline immediately, and indoor radon levels begin to drop as the existing radon in the air is replaced with cleaner outdoor air. Your consumer monitor's 24-hour average should look different after day one. The 7-day and long-term averages take longer to reflect the change - they're mathematical averages that incorporate earlier high readings. Give it 2-4 weeks and your long-term average will show the real post-mitigation picture.
Question linkCheck which number you're looking at. If it's the long-term average or 7-day average, those are rolling averages that still include your pre-mitigation readings - they'll take a couple of weeks to reflect the drop. If your 24-hour average is still at 4.2 after 3 days, that could indicate the system needs an adjustment. Also check the manometer (U-tube gauge on the pipe) - if both liquid columns are at equal height, the fan isn't creating suction. If the 24-hour reading remains high after a week, give us a call and we'll take a look.
Question linkThat's a manometer - it tells you at a glance whether your system is creating suction. It's a clear U-shaped tube partially filled with colored liquid. When the fan is running correctly, one column of liquid will be higher than the other - the difference between the two heights is the suction pressure. If both columns are at the same height, the fan has stopped or isn't creating pressure. Normal operating range is about 0.5 to 1.5 inches water column difference. Check it once or twice a year - it takes about two seconds. If the levels are equal, give us a call.
Question linkTrust the professional test for the purpose it was designed for - it was conducted under controlled closed-house conditions by a calibrated device analyzed in a licensed lab. Your consumer monitor runs continuously under real-world conditions, which include windows opening, weather changes, and HVAC cycling. A consumer monitor showing 2.8 with real-world variation while your professional closed-test showed 1.2 is completely consistent - they're measuring different things. The 1.2 is your baseline under controlled conditions; the 2.8 is your real-world average. Both are well below the EPA action level. All good.
Question linkThat's a great result and very typical. A well-installed system in a home with good sub-slab communication can drop levels by 70-90%, and 1.3 pCi/L is essentially outdoor background levels indoors. That's exactly what the system is supposed to do. The official post-mitigation test within 30 days will confirm the number under controlled conditions. After that, your Airthings long-term average is a good ongoing check to make sure levels stay low. Nice work getting it done.
Question linkThe most common reason is the fan. Radon fans are rated for 5-10 years of continuous operation, and some start to lose efficiency before that. Check your manometer - if the liquid differential is lower than it was (or equal on both sides), the fan is losing power or has stopped. American Radon Systems covers fan replacement free of charge for 5 years after installation. If you are at 5 years, call us and let's check whether it's still under warranty and get the fan inspected or replaced. Don't ignore a rising trend - it's telling you something.
Question linkIf both columns are at equal height, the system is not creating suction - which means the fan has stopped or failed. This needs attention. First check that the fan is plugged in and that the outlet has power (check the breaker). If power is on and the fan motor is silent when you put your hand near it, the fan has likely failed. Give us a call - if you're within 5 years of installation, replacement is covered under our warranty. If you are past 5 years, fan replacement is a straightforward repair.
Question linkIllinois code doesn't require annual retesting - the required post-mitigation test is the one done within 30 days of activation. After that, EPA recommends retesting every 2 years or following any major renovation or sealing work that changes the home's structure. A consumer monitor running continuously gives you ongoing visibility without needing to schedule a new professional test every year. If your monitor's long-term average stays stable and low, you're in good shape. If it starts climbing, that's when to call.
Question linkNo - a healthy radon fan is relatively quiet with a low hum. Grinding or rattling noises indicate the motor bearings are wearing out or something is interfering with the impeller. This is an early warning sign that the fan will fail soon. Don't wait for the fan to stop completely - give us a call. If you are within 5 years of installation, fan replacement is covered under our warranty. If you are outside the warranty period, a replacement fan is inexpensive compared to the alternative of the system failing silently and your levels climbing back up.
Question linkIn the first 24-48 hours, your 24-hour average should start dropping. By day 3-5, the downward trend should be clear if you're watching the app. The 7-day average will still be dragged up by pre-installation readings - it's a rolling average that includes the whole week. By day 14, the 7-day average should be well below your pre-installation levels. By day 30, you'll have a solid long-term baseline. If the 24-hour average hasn't moved at all after 48 hours, check the manometer and give us a call.
Question linkThe required Illinois post-mitigation test must happen within 30 days of activation - not a year. Waiting a year is common as an informal check, but the official documentation for your home is the test done in that first 30-day window. If you are using a consumer monitor, you'll have continuous ongoing readings year-round - no need to wait for a single annual retest. The most useful annual check is just looking at your consumer monitor's long-term average to make sure levels haven't crept up.
Question linkDon't. The fan should run 24/7 - it's the continuous operation that keeps sub-slab pressure depressurized. Turning it off even briefly allows radon to accumulate under the slab and begin entering the home again. The system uses very little electricity (most fans draw 20-80 watts) and runs quietly. If noise is the concern for guests, the fan can often be relocated or sound-isolated - give us a call and we can discuss options. But turning it off is not the answer.
Question linkFirst, confirm your phone is within Bluetooth range of the device (within about 30 feet). The Wave series syncs via Bluetooth, not Wi-Fi - the app needs to be open and the phone nearby to pull new data. If you want remote access without having your phone nearby, you'd need to add a View series monitor as a hub.
Question linkIt depends on the model. The Wave Radon and Wave Plus use Bluetooth only - no Wi-Fi needed, but remote access isn't available without a hub. The View Radon and View Plus have built-in Wi-Fi and provide cloud sync and remote access. The Corentium Home 2 is also Bluetooth-only but doesn't require an app - it has a standalone display.
Question linkThe EcoQube requires a 2.4 GHz network. It won't connect to 5 GHz or 6 GHz networks. If your router combines both bands under one network name, try temporarily disabling 5 GHz band steering during setup, or use a 2.4 GHz SSID if your router creates one. This is a common setup issue with modern mesh Wi-Fi systems.
Question linkMake sure Bluetooth is enabled on your phone, the RadonEye app has Bluetooth permission (check phone app settings), and you're within about 30 feet of the device. Try force-closing the app and reopening. If it still won't pair, power cycle the RadonEye (unplug and replug). The RD200 consumer model works without the app - the OLED display shows current readings independently.
Question linkThe Airthings app is free. An Airthings account is also free. Check the current App Store listing for the most up-to-date plan details.
Question linkAirthings SmartLink is a wireless protocol that lets Wave series monitors connect to a View series monitor as a hub, which then pushes data to the cloud. If you only have a Wave Radon (no hub), you get data when your phone is nearby via Bluetooth. If you add a View Radon or View Plus (USB-powered and Wi-Fi connected), all your Wave devices sync to the cloud and you can check readings remotely. For most homeowners doing post-mitigation monitoring, a standalone Corentium Home 2 (touchscreen display, no hub needed) is simpler.
Question linkFor Wave series devices (Bluetooth only): they'll appear offline in the cloud if no hub is connected. The device is still measuring radon - data is stored locally and syncs when your phone is nearby. If you want always-on cloud connectivity, add a View device as a hub.
Question linkLong-term elevated radon exposure increases the risk of lung cancer over time. There are no immediate symptoms - the risk accumulates silently. Mitigation is a relatively straightforward, one-time fix that significantly reduces that risk. Most systems pay for themselves in peace of mind alone. There's no good reason to ignore a level above 4.0 pCi/L once you know about it.
Question linkOpen the Ecosense app, find the device, and go through the Wi-Fi setup process again. The EcoQube stores one Wi-Fi network - when you change your password, you need to re-provision it. Follow the setup flow in the app (it will walk you through Bluetooth provisioning to connect to the new network).
Question linkBattery percentage in the app can sometimes lag or not accurately reflect actual battery condition. If the device is displaying readings normally, it's probably fine. Many Airthings models get 1.5-3 years of actual battery life depending on the model and whether a hub is active. If you start seeing inconsistent readings or the display dims, replace the batteries proactively.
Question linkShe should act on that. 6.8 pCi/L is well above the EPA action level, and with two toddlers who will be in that home for years, getting it fixed soon is the right move. Mitigation is a one-day installation and brings levels down quickly. Share this with her: call or text Bill at American Radon Systems - we can explain the process, give a sense of cost, and get her on the schedule. No pressure, just a conversation.
Question link4.0 pCi/L is exactly the EPA action level - the point at which the EPA says you should fix it. At 4.0, the recommendation is clear. Your neighbor should schedule mitigation. Whether they're at 3.9 or 4.1 doesn't really change the biology - the threshold is a regulatory line, not a biological cliff. At 4.0, the recommendation is to mitigate. Have them give us a call.
Question linkNo - the first-day reading on an Airthings is preliminary. Airthings monitors take about 7 days to reach stable accuracy, and day 1 readings can swing significantly above or below the true level. Tell her to let it run for at least 7 days, then check the 7-day average. If that average is consistently above 4.0 pCi/L, then it's time to look into mitigation.
Question linkBoth can be correct simultaneously for different reasons. Professional tests are run under controlled closed-house conditions at a specific time; consumer monitors show ongoing conditions. If your professional test was done in summer and your monitor is now reading higher in winter, seasonal variation explains the difference. If the test was very recent and the readings differ significantly, check the monitor's placement and let it run another 30 days to see where the long-term average settles.
Question linkA 7-day reading on a Corentium Home is reasonably reliable - the device is designed for this kind of placement and the 7-day average smooths out short-term fluctuations. 5.5 pCi/L is above the action level. She shouldn't dismiss it. Even so, for an official result she can use for documentation or mitigation planning, a professional test is the next step. Borrowed library kits are a great way to get a first look - but a licensed professional test gives her documentation. Have her give us a call and we can walk through what comes next.
Question linkNo. Radon levels vary dramatically house to house - even neighboring homes can have very different levels based on foundation type, soil composition, and construction details. Neighborhood or county averages are not a substitute for testing the specific home you're buying. Test the house.
Question linkNot necessarily. Radon levels vary significantly from house to house, even neighbors on the same street. Different foundation types, sub-slab conditions, construction details, and ventilation patterns all affect how much radon enters each home. Your neighbor's reading tells you radon is present in the area, but you'd need to test your own home to know your level. An electronic monitor or a professional test are both reasonable options.
Question linkShe should take it seriously. 4.1 pCi/L is just above the EPA action level, and with young children in the home, acting on it makes sense. Suggest she check the long-term average to confirm the reading is stable (not just a weather spike). If it holds above 4.0 pCi/L, a mitigation consultation is the right next step. The whole process - site visit, installation, post-test - typically takes a few weeks.
Question linkYes - a drop like that is typical for a well-installed system in a home with good sub-slab conditions. Sub-slab depressurization is highly effective when designed correctly. Most systems bring levels well below 2.0 pCi/L.
Question linkIt's a meaningful signal but not a confirm. Radon levels can vary significantly between adjacent homes depending on foundation type, construction details, sub-slab conditions, and how much each home has been air-sealed over the years. A neighbor at 5.2 pCi/L means you're likely in a geologically elevated area - Illinois has many such zones. The right move is to test your own home. If you've never tested, a professional short-term test gives you your specific number. Call or text Bill and we can point you to a licensed tester or discuss mitigation if you already have a high reading.
Question link3.7 pCi/L puts you in the "consider mitigation" zone - the EPA recommends thinking seriously about mitigation between 2.0 and 4.0 pCi/L, and acting at 4.0 and above. At 3.7, you're close enough to the action level that it's worth a conversation. How long you've lived in the home, how much time you spend on lower floors, and whether there are young children or smokers in the home all factor into the decision. Give us a call - Bill can walk you through whether mitigation makes sense for your situation, no pressure.
Question linkYes - test your home regardless. Geologic radon zones give you a regional picture, but individual homes vary significantly. Your neighbor's information means the soil in your area has elevated radon potential, which makes testing important. Don't assume your home is high or low based on the neighborhood - get your specific number. A professional short-term test is the fastest way to find out. Give us a call if you need a referral or want to discuss what the result might mean.
Question linkThe 24-hour reading from a consumer monitor is a reasonable indicator, but it's not a definitive measurement. Consumer monitors reach better accuracy over 7-30 days, and borrowing a monitor that may have been in someone else's home means its calibration and internal settings may not reflect a fresh start. 3.8 pCi/L is in the "consider mitigation" range - worth taking seriously. A professional test using a calibrated device under closed conditions would give you a more reliable number. Give us a call and we can talk through the options.
Question linkHe should document the reading - take a photo of the monitor with the result visible - and send written notice to the landlord requesting mitigation. In Illinois, landlord responsibility for radon varies by lease and local code, but having a documented elevated reading puts the landlord on notice. A consumer monitor reading isn't the same as a professional test, so the landlord could argue that point - but it's a starting place. If the landlord is unresponsive, consulting with a tenant rights organization would be the next step. Happy to answer questions about the mitigation side if it comes to that.
Question linkYour friend's result is a strong signal to test your own home. Subdivisions built around the same time on similar soil conditions often have comparable radon potential, though individual homes vary. 8.0 pCi/L is well above the action level - your friend should get mitigation done as soon as possible. For you: get a test, and don't wait. It takes 48-96 hours and gives you your specific answer. Give us a call if either of you would like to discuss mitigation options.
Question link12.0 pCi/L is three times the EPA action level - that's elevated enough that it warrants prompt action. He should get a mitigation system installed as soon as possible. The fact that he doesn't seem alarmed is common - radon is invisible and causes no symptoms, so it doesn't feel urgent. Framing it as practical rather than frightening is usually most effective: "Radon is the #1 cause of lung cancer in non-smokers. You have the most fixable version of this problem - a mitigation system costs a few thousand dollars and is done in a day." Share our number with him. We're happy to walk him through it.
Question linkSame floor plan is a meaningful piece of information - it means similar foundation type, construction details, and probably similar sub-slab conditions. That doesn't confirm your levels are the same, but it's a solid reason to test. For homes with identical floor plans in the same neighborhood, when one has elevated radon, adjacent homes with the same construction often have it too. Get a professional test - 48 hours will give you your answer. Give us a call if the results are elevated.
Question linkYes - an HOA notice like that is a good prompt for every homeowner to test. Two confirmed elevated homes in a neighborhood suggests local geology that affects the area broadly. Each home's results will vary, but given the regional signal, testing is the responsible step. A professional test takes 48-96 hours. If your results are elevated, mitigation solves it. Give us a call if you'd like to understand the testing process or discuss what comes next if your results are high.
Question linkYes, she should still test. Builder-installed radon resistant new construction (RRNC) systems are passive - they don't always include a fan. Without a fan, radon can still accumulate. Even with an active fan, she needs her own current reading under her specific living conditions to know whether the system is working for her home. A post-occupancy professional test within the first year is the right move. If levels are still elevated despite the RRNC system, adding or upgrading the fan is straightforward. Have her give us a call.
Question link1.8 pCi/L on the fourth floor of a condo is well within normal range - below both the "consider mitigation" threshold of 2.0 pCi/L and the national average of 1.3 pCi/L in some regions. Fourth-floor units typically have much lower radon than ground-floor or basement units because they're far from the soil source. Her reading is fine. If she wants to keep monitoring it, the Airthings long-term average is a good ongoing check. No action needed.
Question linkYes - community awareness like that is a useful signal. If multiple neighbors in your area are reporting elevated levels, that's information about your local geology. But your specific home's levels depend on factors unique to your foundation, construction, and sub-slab conditions. A professional test is the only way to know your number. It's inexpensive and fast. Give us a call if you'd like to talk through the testing process or what mitigation involves if your results come back elevated.
Question linkCompletely realistic. A well-installed active sub-slab depressurization system can bring homes from high pre-mitigation levels to below 1.0 pCi/L in many cases. The reduction depends on the home's sub-slab conditions and the specific system design, but drops of 80-95% are common. Going from 8.5 to 0.9 is about a 90% reduction - a strong but not unusual result. If your own home has elevated radon, those kinds of results are achievable. Give us a call and we can talk through what's realistic for your specific home.
Question link6 months old is reasonably current for a general picture, though a lot can change with seasons - a test done in summer may show lower levels than the same home in winter. 3.0 pCi/L is in the "consider mitigation" zone. As a buyer, you can request a new test as part of the inspection process. If you want to know current levels under controlled conditions, a fresh professional test is the right call. It's not an expensive or time-consuming ask. Give us a call if you'd like to understand what the process looks like.
Question link2.1 pCi/L is in the "consider mitigation" zone - the EPA says to think about it between 2.0 and 4.0 pCi/L. It's not a crisis, but it's not nothing. Whether she acts on it depends on how long she plans to stay in the home, whether there are children or smokers, and her own tolerance for long-term low-level risk. The right framing is: "You're not in danger today, but if you're in this home for 20 more years, this is worth addressing." She can get a second opinion with a professional test. If she wants to discuss options, have her give us a call.
Question linkHer neighbor's situation is a strong reason for your mother to test. Levels above 10 pCi/L in a neighboring home suggest local geology that affects the area, and homes with similar construction in the same neighborhood often have comparable potential. A professional short-term test takes 48-96 hours and gives her a specific answer for her home. If levels are elevated, mitigation is a one-day job. Give us a call - we're happy to walk her through the testing and mitigation process, no pressure.
Question linkRadon risk is a long-term exposure issue, not an immediate emergency. A reading of 6 pCi/L that persists over weeks is meaningful and worth fixing - but it doesn't mean your family is in acute danger today. Radon causes lung cancer through years of elevated exposure, not hours or days. Even so, this is above the EPA action level and worth addressing. Call or text Bill and we can talk through getting a mitigation system in place.
Question linkProtecting your home from radon is always worthwhile, especially when young children are involved. Everyone in the home accumulates exposure over time, and children who grow up in a home are there for years. If your radon level is elevated, fixing it now protects your whole family over the long term. Call or text Bill - we can walk through what mitigation would look like for your home.
Question linkNo - you don't need to move out. Radon is a chronic risk, not an acute one. Even so, 4.5 pCi/L is above the EPA action level, and it's worth getting a mitigation system in place. We can typically schedule an installation and have a system running within a week or two. In the meantime, increasing ventilation (opening windows when weather allows) can temporarily reduce indoor levels. Call or text Bill and let's get this taken care of.
Question linkYes. Radon is the leading cause of lung cancer in non-smokers. About 2,900 non-smokers die from radon-related lung cancer each year in the US. The fix is the same regardless of smoking status: a mitigation system to bring levels below the EPA action level. Not smoking is great for your health, but it doesn't make you immune to radon risk.
Question linkRadon-related lung cancer develops over years to decades of elevated exposure - not days or weeks. There are no immediate symptoms. This is what makes radon different from carbon monoxide: you can't feel it in the moment. The health risk is about cumulative lifetime exposure, which is why acting now - even if you've lived with elevated levels for years - still makes a meaningful difference.
Question linkCompromised lung health can affect how the body responds to any lung cancer risk factor, including radon. For someone with existing lung disease, keeping indoor air quality as good as possible - including reducing radon - is a reasonable priority. This is a question worth discussing with your dad's doctor regarding his specific situation. What we can do is bring your radon level down. Give us a call.
Question linkIt's not too late. Reducing your radon level now still reduces your future exposure. Lung cancer from radon develops from cumulative lifetime exposure - the risk grows with continued elevated exposure. Fixing your radon level now means all the future years of living in the house are at a lower risk. It's always worth doing.
Question linkPets breathe the same air you do. If radon levels are elevated, pets that spend a lot of time in the basement are also exposed. This is less studied than human health impacts, but the physics of radon exposure don't distinguish between species. Fixing elevated radon protects everyone in the home.
Question linkNo - the mechanism is different. Radon emits alpha particles when it decays. Alpha particles are stopped by a few centimeters of air or a sheet of paper - they can't penetrate your skin from the outside. The concern with radon is breathing air that contains radon and its decay products, which can lodge in lung tissue. X-ray and gamma radiation penetrate from outside. Radon's risk is entirely about inhalation, which is why removing it from the air you breathe is so effective.
Question linkOlder adults who spend significant time in a high-radon space accumulate risk just like anyone else. If her living space shows elevated levels, it's worth fixing. A mitigation system installed in the main house also typically reduces basement levels - call Bill to discuss whether her unit's radon profile is covered by the existing system or would benefit from additional work.
Question linkVentilation brings radon levels down temporarily, but it's not a lasting solution. Once windows are closed, levels return to baseline within hours. In winter, continuous open-window ventilation isn't practical and has significant energy costs. A mitigation system addresses radon at the source - drawing sub-slab air out before it enters the home - which works around the clock regardless of weather.
Question linkRadon doesn't primarily enter through windows. It enters through the foundation - cracks in the slab or foundation walls, the gap around pipe penetrations, the sump pit, and concrete block voids. Closing windows doesn't stop radon entry; it just stops dilution. Sealing entry points can help at the margins, but active sub-slab depressurization (the mitigation system) is the reliable fix.
Question linkIt's smart to pay attention to where your family spends the most time. Kids who play in a basement regularly accumulate more exposure-hours there than adults who mainly use it for laundry. If the basement level is elevated, that's a good reason to prioritize mitigation. After a system is installed, kids can go back to using the basement normally.
Question linkFor a real estate decision, a professional test is the right tool. A consumer monitor reading can be directionally useful, but it can't satisfy a contingency clause and its placement and calibration aren't verified. Get a licensed short-term test done under closed-house conditions to have a definitive number before closing.
Question linkA long-term Airthings average is a real data point - it reflects actual radon levels in the home over an extended period. However, you don't know the monitor's placement, whether it was properly positioned, or if it's been calibrated. It's reasonable context but not a substitute for a professional test for purposes of making a purchase decision. A professional pre-purchase test is a small cost relative to the home purchase.
Question linkThis is a common practice in Illinois real estate. You can request a test as part of your offer contingency, or arrange and pay for your own test during the inspection period. Buyer-arranged tests give you more control over the testing professional and conditions. If you want a recommendation on finding a licensed tester, call Bill and we can point you in the right direction.
Question linkGreat - that's a good sign. First, ask the seller for the original installation paperwork and any post-mitigation test results. Confirm the system is active (look at the manometer - both columns unequal means the fan is running). Then schedule a new professional test under your ownership - conditions may have changed since the seller's test. Place a consumer monitor in the basement for ongoing tracking.
Question link"LO" on the RadonEye OLED display typically means the reading is below the minimum detectable range, or the device is still in its initial warmup period. Let it run for at least an hour before the display settles on a numerical reading. If it continues showing "LO" after an hour, confirm the device is powered (the 12V adapter is connected) and the air inlet isn't blocked.
Question linkYes - Illinois § 422.160 requires new residential construction to include either a passive (rough-in) or active radon control system. Active systems have a fan and are considered complete mitigation; passive systems create a path for radon to vent but may not be as effective without a fan. If you are in a newer home with a passive rough-in, adding a fan is a relatively low-cost upgrade.
Question link32 Ill. Adm. Code Part 422, Section 422.150 governs radon mitigation in existing residential housing. It specifies requirements for pipe material (Schedule 40 PVC), minimum pipe diameter (3 inches), post-mitigation test timing (24 hours to 30 days), and requires that the test be performed by an independent licensed measurement professional.
Question linkYes - a consumer radon monitor is a personal air quality device you can use in any space you occupy. Placing one on a countertop or bookshelf is no different from a thermometer. If the monitor shows elevated levels, you'd want to share that information with your landlord regardless.
Question linkBuilding age doesn't determine radon levels. Radon depends on the local soil, foundation type, and construction details - not the year it was built. A newer home can have high radon; an home can have low radon. If you are concerned, test the space yourself with a consumer monitor.
Question linkAsk for: (1) the installation company's name and license number, (2) the installation date and scope, (3) the original post-mitigation test result, and (4) any subsequent test results. When you move in, get your own professional test to establish your baseline under your ownership. Check that the fan is running (look at the manometer) and ask about the fan's warranty.
Question linkNow. You can do a professional short-term test (2-7 days) or use a consumer monitor for a longer-term reading. If you haven't tested yet, place a consumer monitor in the basement today. If the reading is consistently above 4.0 pCi/L, schedule a professional test and call Bill for a site assessment.
Question linkA sub-slab depressurization system - the most common type - draws air from beneath your foundation slab using a continuously running fan. This creates negative pressure under the slab that prevents radon from being pushed into the home by the natural pressure differential. The radon-laden air is routed up a pipe and exhausted outside above the roofline, where it disperses harmlessly.
Question linkMost installations are completed in one day. Bill does a site visit first to assess your home's sub-slab conditions and plan the system. Installation typically involves drilling a suction point through the slab, installing pipe routed to the attic or exterior, mounting the fan, and sealing any major radon entry points. The fan is plugged in at the end and the system is running the same day.
Question linkThe system is designed to run without active maintenance. The main check is the manometer (U-tube gauge) - make sure both sides aren't equal (which would mean the fan is off). Listen periodically for the fan running quietly. Every few years, a professional can verify the system is still depressurizing effectively, especially if you see your radon level rising. Fan replacement is covered by our 5-year warranty.
Question linkIncreasing fan noise can indicate bearing wear or debris in the fan housing. After several years of continuous operation, fans may develop bearing wear. If the noise is significantly louder than before, call Bill - this is covered under our 5-year warranty during that period, and we can assess whether the fan needs replacement.
Question linkYes - increasing ventilation while the weather allows (opening windows and doors when practical) will temporarily reduce indoor radon levels. However, this only works while windows are open and has significant energy costs in cold weather. It's a short-term measure. The mitigation system is the durable fix.
Question linkWe're very sorry to hear that. Getting your home mitigated protects the other people living there, and that's the right next step. Call or text Bill - we can prioritize your situation and get you scheduled quickly.
Question linkYes - people who spend more hours per day in a high-radon space accumulate more exposure over time. If your home office is in the basement and you're working there 8+ hours a day, your total radon exposure is significantly higher than someone who only uses the basement occasionally. This is a good reason to mitigate promptly if basement levels are elevated.
Question linkA teenager spending 8-10 hours a day in an elevated-radon basement is accumulating meaningful exposure over years. It's a genuine reason to prioritize mitigation. The good news: the fix is effective and typically brings levels down quickly. Give Bill a call so we can get this taken care of.
Question linkThere is no blood test, urine test, or medical scan that directly measures past radon exposure or detects early radon-related lung cancer before symptoms appear. Lung cancer screening (low-dose CT scan) is available for high-risk individuals - talk to your doctor about whether you qualify based on age, smoking history, and radon exposure history. We can tell you your home's radon level; your doctor can advise on any health screening that's appropriate for you.
Question linkRadon primarily causes lung cancer; asthma is a different condition affecting airway inflammation. There's no established direct link between asthma and increased radon sensitivity. Even so, any homeowner with existing respiratory conditions has additional reason to maintain good indoor air quality overall. Reducing radon is a worthwhile component of that.
Question linkAbsolutely. Mitigation now means your home is ready when your family grows. A baby sleeping in a home with a properly installed mitigation system is protected from day one. The installation is easier to plan and schedule before a baby arrives than after.
Question linkA consumer monitor can give you directional information - if it shows a consistent 30-day average above 4.0 pCi/L, that's actionable. For a formal mitigation decision (and especially for post-mitigation documentation), a professional test is the appropriate tool. But if you want to check what's happening in your home before calling anyone, starting with a consumer monitor is perfectly reasonable.
Question linkRisk is proportional to exposure - concentration × time. Four hours per day at 5 pCi/L is meaningfully lower cumulative exposure than 16 hours per day at 5 pCi/L, but it's still above the EPA action level and accumulates over years. Mitigation eliminates the concern regardless of how much time is spent there, and levels on upper floors will also decrease modestly after mitigation.
Question link4.5 pCi/L is above the EPA action level of 4.0 pCi/L, and a basement bedroom means your son is spending 8+ hours a night in the highest-radon space in the home. Radon risk is a function of concentration times time - a bedroom is one of the highest-exposure scenarios because of how long someone sleeps there. The good news is this is fixable. A mitigation system typically brings levels well below 2.0 pCi/L, and the system runs continuously so the result is designed to keep running continuously. Give us a call and we can walk you through what a system would look like for your home - no pressure, just information.
Question linkIt's not an emergency in the sense that you need to leave your home tonight - but it is something you should take care of promptly. Radon risk builds over years of exposure, not hours, so a few weeks while you arrange mitigation isn't cause for panic. Even so, 5.2 pCi/L is meaningfully above the EPA action level, and if your baby's nursery is on an upper floor rather than the basement, the levels there may be lower. The practical step is to get a mitigation system installed soon - it's a one-day job and brings levels down right away. Call or text Bill and we can usually get on the schedule within a week or two.
Question linkYes, it matters, though it's a lower-exposure situation than a basement bedroom. Radon exposure adds up over time - 2-3 hours per day is roughly 700-900 hours per year of exposure in the highest-concentration area of the home. If your basement level is at or above 4.0 pCi/L, that's still a meaningful annual dose. Below 2.0 pCi/L, the risk drops significantly. If you haven't tested, a professional test will give you the number you need to make a real decision. Happy to answer questions once you have a reading - or call Bill and we can talk it through.
Question linkTesting is still worth doing. If her levels are elevated, a mitigation system can reduce her ongoing exposure starting the day it's installed - future exposure matters even at 78. And if she plans to sell the home, a test and mitigation report can be useful documentation for buyers. A short-term professional test takes about 48 hours and is inexpensive. If it comes back elevated, a system is a one-day installation. Reach out to Bill and we can help figure out the right approach for her situation.
Question linkYes - significantly. Radon and smoking together dramatically multiply lung cancer risk. EPA risk tables show that radon risk is much higher for smokers than for people who have never smoked. This happens because radon's decay products attach to the particulates from cigarette smoke and are more easily deposited deep in lung tissue. If your husband smokes and your home has elevated radon, mitigation is genuinely high-priority for his health. Give us a call and we can talk through what a system would involve.
Question linkTell her the reading matters and it's worth getting a test right away if she hasn't already. Basement apartments tend to have the highest radon levels in a home, and pregnant women want to minimize any avoidable health risks. Radon concern is mainly long-term lung cancer risk from sustained elevated exposure; for pregnancy-specific health questions, talk with a medical professional. Even so, if the reading is above 4.0 pCi/L, getting it fixed is the right move regardless. A mitigation system works for basement apartments the same way it works for full homes. Call or text Bill and we can talk through what's involved.
Question linkThe same professional short-term test used for homes works for a basement daycare space. The test device is placed in the basement for 48-96 hours under closed conditions, then mailed to a lab. Illinois licensed measurement professionals perform these tests. If levels come back elevated, mitigation is the same process as any residential installation - and it's especially worth addressing given how many children spend time there. Call us and we can point you in the right direction on testing if you need a referral, or discuss what mitigation would look like for the space.
Question linkThe simplest way to frame it: the EPA identifies radon as the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States and the leading cause among people who have never smoked. It's not controversial science - it's been studied for decades and is recognized by the EPA, CDC, WHO, and the American Cancer Society. The skepticism usually comes from the fact that radon is invisible, odorless, and you can't feel it - it doesn't cause symptoms while it's doing damage. A test is inexpensive and either confirms the concern or rules it out. If she's open to "let's just check," that's usually the most productive path. Happy to answer any questions she has directly.
Question linkChildren who grow up in a high-radon home accumulate more total exposure years than adults who move in later - that's the most meaningful sense in which children are at higher risk. A child who spends their first 18 years in a home with 6 pCi/L accumulates far more lifetime exposure than a 45-year-old who moves in for 10 years. Some research also suggests children's lungs may be more sensitive to radiation damage because they're still developing. The practical takeaway is the same either way: if the home has elevated radon, fix it - it protects everyone and the cost is the same regardless. Give us a call to talk through what mitigation involves.
Question linkThis is one of the hardest questions people ask, and the honest answer is: the risk is real but it's probabilistic, not certain. Radon increases lung cancer risk over time - it doesn't cause it in every case. Fifteen years at elevated levels is meaningful exposure, but most people who live with elevated radon don't develop lung cancer. The most important thing now is to get a system installed so future exposure stops, and to make sure no one in the family smokes (which multiplies the risk significantly). For medical concerns, talk with your doctor. From the home side, the practical step is reducing future exposure. What you can control now is fixing it going forward. Call Bill and we can get that taken care of.
Question link3.5 pCi/L puts you in what the EPA calls the "consider mitigation" zone - below the 4.0 action level but above the point where the EPA says to think about it seriously. For a toddler spending most of the day in the basement, the time-of-exposure factor is real. Mitigation systems work just as well at 3.5 as at 6.0, and the cost is the same. Many families in your situation decide to go ahead and fix it for peace of mind. Give us a call and we can talk through whether it makes sense for your home - no obligation, just a conversation.
Question link6.8 pCi/L is well above the EPA action level, and a basement bedroom is one of the highest-exposure situations. It's understandable to feel alarmed, but the most useful thing to do right now is get a mitigation system installed so the exposure stops. There's there is no simple home test that can tell you what past radon exposure did - the risk is probabilistic and unfolds over decades, not immediately. Getting it fixed now meaningfully reduces any future risk. Don't let guilt about the past paralyze action on the present. Call or text Bill and we can get a system in quickly.
Question linkMoving her temporarily is a reasonable precaution if your level is well above the action level (say, above 8 pCi/L) and you're waiting on a mitigation appointment. For levels in the 4-6 range, the incremental risk over a few weeks of waiting is small - it's accumulated years of exposure that matter, not a few extra weeks. Mitigation can usually be scheduled within 1-2 weeks. If it gives you peace of mind to have her sleep upstairs in the interim, there's no harm in it. Give us a call and we can often get on the schedule quickly.
Question linkThe good news is the nursery is on the second floor where radon levels will be meaningfully lower than the basement. Radon concentrations drop on upper floors because the source is the soil below, and the gas dilutes as it moves up through the home. Even so, 4.8 pCi/L in the basement means your overall home has a radon issue worth addressing. Getting mitigation installed before the baby arrives is a good goal - it's a one-day job and the system starts working immediately. Call Bill and we can work to fit your timeline.
Question linkFirst-floor levels are typically 40-60% lower than basement levels in a home with active radon. So if your basement is 5.5 pCi/L, a rough estimate for the first floor might be 2-3 pCi/L - though this varies by home construction, insulation, and ventilation. That's still in the "consider mitigation" range. The only way to know for sure is to test the first floor directly, or install mitigation (which addresses the source and lowers levels throughout the home). Give us a call and we can help you think through the testing approach.
Question linkThe 40-years-and-fine argument is genuinely hard to counter without being alarmist - and he may be right if his levels are low. What usually works is reframing it: "A test just tells us the number. If it's low, great, you were right all along. If it's high, we know. Either way it takes 48 hours and then we know." If he'd be willing to let you place a test kit, that's the path. If levels come back elevated, that becomes a more factual conversation. Happy to talk through how to approach it with him if that would help - give us a call.
Question linkAsthma affects the airways and increases sensitivity to irritants, but the mechanism of radon damage is different - it's ionizing radiation that damages lung cells over time, not an irritant response. Radon risk is the same for someone with asthma as for someone without it. However, people with asthma already have compromised lung health, which makes protecting lung tissue from additional long-term damage even more important. The case for mitigation is the same, just with added weight given her existing condition. Give us a call if you'd like to talk through options.
Question linkYes, absolutely - testing makes sense in your situation. Lung cancer in a non-smoker who lived in the same area for decades is one of the patterns that raises the question of radon exposure. Whether or not radon was involved in his case, the right move is to test your own home and know your number. If it comes back elevated, mitigation is a straightforward fix. If it comes back low, you can stop wondering. Either way you'll have information. Give us a call if you'd like to talk through the testing process.
Question linkMany families with young children in your situation decide yes. The EPA's "consider mitigation" zone starts at 2.0 pCi/L specifically because the risk below 4.0 isn't zero - it's just lower. At 3.8 with two young children who'll be in the home for years, the math often lands on "worth it." Mitigation systems work just as effectively at 3.8 as at higher levels. The system also gives you long-term peace of mind and adds value to the home. Call Bill and we can talk through whether it makes sense for your specific situation.
Question link4.1 pCi/L on the first floor is above the EPA action level - which means your basement levels are likely higher. Getting mitigation done before the baby arrives is a reasonable goal, and it's a one-day installation. Radon's primary risk is lung cancer from long-term exposure, not an acute risk during pregnancy, so a few weeks while you arrange mitigation isn't a crisis. But there's no reason to wait longer than necessary. Call Bill and we can work to fit your schedule.
Question linkRadon doesn't cause respiratory infections - those are from viruses and bacteria. Radon's health effect is specifically lung cancer from long-term radiation exposure, not immune suppression or susceptibility to infections. If your child is having frequent respiratory issues, that's a conversation to have with their pediatrician. Even so, if you have elevated radon in the home, mitigating it is a good move for long-term lung health regardless of the infection question. Give us a call if you'd like to discuss testing or mitigation.
Question linkYes - for two reasons. First, you and your family continue to live in the home for 2-3 years, and lower radon levels benefit everyone there. Second, a mitigation system with a clean post-mitigation test report is a selling asset. Buyers increasingly ask about radon, and a documented, professionally installed system is a much cleaner transaction than a mid-sale remediation request. Most buyers' agents see mitigation as a positive. Give us a call and we can talk through the installation and what documentation we provide.
Question linkGetting mitigation done soon makes sense given the reading and the new babies. The nursery upstairs will have lower levels, which is good, but any time you or your babies spend in the basement (laundry, play area, guests) is at the higher concentration. 4.6 pCi/L is above the action level and the fix is straightforward. A mitigation system installs in a day and starts lowering levels immediately. Give us a call and we can get you on the schedule.
Question linkIt depends on the inspector's credentials. To count as an official radon test for real estate purposes in Illinois, the test must be conducted by a licensed radon measurement professional using a properly calibrated device under closed-building conditions. If your inspector is licensed for radon measurement and followed the protocol, the test may count. If they just had a consumer-grade RadonEye with them and dropped it in the basement for 2 hours, that doesn't meet the standard. Ask the inspector for their Illinois radon measurement license number and the test protocol they used. When in doubt, get a proper test done - call us if you need a referral.
Question linkYes. A mitigation system being present tells you the sellers were aware of a radon problem and addressed it - but it doesn't tell you whether the system is currently working or what levels are today. The fan could have failed. The pipe could be disconnected. Without a current post-mitigation test, you don't know what the levels are. Request a test as part of your inspection contingency. If there's a system in place and it's working, you should see levels well below the action level - good documentation for your purchase. Give us a call if you need help evaluating an existing system.
Question linkIllinois requires a 48-hour minimum short-term test conducted by a state licensed radon measurement professional. The home must be in closed-building conditions for at least 12 hours before the test begins and throughout the test period. The device is typically an alpha track or electret ion chamber device placed in the lowest livable area of the home. Results are analyzed in an accredited lab and the tester provides a written report. DIY charcoal canisters from a hardware store don't meet the standard for a formal real estate transaction. Give us a call if you need a referral to a measurement professional.
Question linkYou should get a new test. Radon levels change over time as homes settle, sump pits age, and foundation conditions shift. A 3-year-old test is stale - it doesn't reflect current conditions. A 2.1 pCi/L result 3 years ago could be different today. For a home purchase, current information protects you. A new 48-hour test is inexpensive and gives you a current reading you can actually rely on. Give us a call if you need a referral.
Question linkYes - new homes can absolutely have elevated radon. In fact, new homes are often tighter than homes, which can mean radon accumulates more. Many new homes in Illinois are built with radon-resistant new construction (RRNC) features (a passive subslab layer and a vertical pipe stub-out ready for a fan), but these features don't confirm low radon. A test after occupancy will tell you the real number. If levels are elevated, a fan can be added to the existing RRNC stub-out quickly and inexpensively. Give us a call if you're moving into a new home and want to test.
Question linkIt means someone installed a mitigation system at some point but there's no documentation that it worked. This is a significant gap. You don't know if the system was properly installed, what the pre-mitigation level was, whether the fan is currently functioning, or whether levels are actually below the action level today. Request a current test as part of your contingency. If the system is working, a current test should show low levels and give you something to rely on. If the system isn't working, you want to know before you close.
Question linkKeep it simple: radon is a naturally-occurring gas that comes from soil, it can accumulate in homes, and it's the leading cause of lung cancer in non-smokers. A test shows whether it's a problem, and a mitigation system fixes it if it is. The good news is it's not a deal-breaker - it's a known issue with a known fix. Most buyers just want to know the number and understand what the options are. If it comes up, encourage them to test and understand the result before panicking or walking. Happy to answer buyer questions directly - call or text Bill.
Question linkYes - home inspectors typically note that radon testing is recommended and refer out to a licensed measurement professional, rather than doing the test themselves. General home inspectors aren't usually licensed for radon measurement, so they don't include it in the standard inspection. If your inspector mentioned radon, take it seriously and schedule a separate professional radon test before closing. Give us a call if you need a referral.
Question linkQuestions are fine too. Call or text Bill, or send your address and contact info, and he will take it from there.
Reviewed by Bill Dahlstrom, Illinois radon mitigation license RNM2018212.